fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Thats what i was worried about on the straight cut , would it be a more rougher ride tho i mean i rip it like no other in the streets but i like to chill sometimes when im crusin or just getting off the line like a normal car will it be boggin or anything like that or will i have to be hitting it off the line hard every time? sorry if that a dumb ? i dont mind about the cost i mean if it helps out even a little ill get them i just dont want any cons like it taking alot more to take off And what teeth should i change it too? RN im running 15f/R41 i think on the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 aka when theres a cop next to me i dont wanna have to rip it to get off the line is what i mean lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 36 minutes ago, trickedcarbine said: With that amount of time on a motor, you need to be thinking about far more then just replacing the Pistons and crank. There are several wear items that are in the low end and if you are splitting the cases, it makes sense to take care of it all at once so you don't need to deal with it again. Things like the Transmission bearings, shift shaft, shift eccentric screw, any easier shifting mods, all clutch parts, crank seals, pancake bearing, clutch actuator arm, shift rod and ball, maybe even do a Pro Mod transmission so it shifts nice and easy. Pretty sure Jeff at FAST has a whole package price for all that type of stuff with all the little special OEM clips and washer type stuff. Now is definitely the time to handle it all. In all reality, Banshee's are about as easy as they come. You have the Clymer's manual and if you've read it all, you should be good to go. If you're not sure, hit up D&M racing and talk to Doug or Shane. Thats exactly what i wanted to hear thanks man , literally this just seems like if i do all that i should be all set , damn this forum helps out big time. Now talkin about the pro mod tranny im too down to do something like that so thats a forsure any tips on the inside that can be aftermarket or is it best just to replace everything u had listed above oem? and as far as rebuilding it i really hope it turns out good because last time i tried doing the top end i was only able to get 2 hours out of it till the pistons literally melted inside. melted on the jugs had to get them acid , but im older now ive gone through the whole clymer manual 3x no joke and i honestly think if i were to pay attention every second i should be able to get this thing running with no problem (major problem at least) any thought on bigger street tires in the back to help my top end? seems like you kno your shit so any advice id greatly appreciate thanks for the reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 6, 2018 Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 As far as all the wear items in the low end, replace most of it with OEM. However things like clutch parts, and pancake bearing will be best to go aftermarket. As far as the Pro Mod, it's basically just machining a few items on the gear set itself and some guys do a bearing on the end of the shift drum and smooth out the tips on the shift star so the roller on the detent arm moves over them smoother. It allows you to be about as mean as you want to the trans and it'll be like going from an old muscle car trans, to a new Tremec. As long as you know how to prep gasket surfaces and torque it all properly, it should live just fine. More often then not, it's something silly that causes melt downs. A reed gasket not sealing, or guys who kill a top end due to crank seals, but just do another top end. 9 times outta 10, it's something just over looked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 see and i wouldn't mind sending my stuff to someone like jeff at FAST but im new to this place so i have no idea how to contact anyone about anything on here or who can help , but most def will use resources if there are some and who on here has the best motor work for a street set up any ideas on how much a whole new motor would cost to have it shipped here in tucson with street set up? ( having that second motor on the shelf isnt a bad idea ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2018 Thank you guys alot everyone thats replied you guys have been phenomenal, ill keep posted on the rebuild hopefully i dont run into anything crazy but i will most def contact you guys if i get stuck on anything , ill post pics if i can figure out how to lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Hit up D&M. They're in AZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 Put a Wiseco crank in my son's, doesn't get rode a lot of , but hard when he does. Also used one for a repair job 2yrs ago, haven't heard anything from him. How did you determine piston size. Only once have I used a new piston in an old hole. Couple things you could do for your style of riding. Increase main jet, gear it up, use more oil in gas, maybe oversized radiator. What kind of oil you using, what ratio ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 BTW, a Banshee is probably the easiest engine to work on. Everything lays in bottom case then upper goes on. Clean mating surface PUSSY clean. Use plumber's acid brush to spread Yamabond or 3bond, NO SILICON !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ride.race.live Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 A pro mod trans and straight cut gears ect all the things mentioned will not effect how you can ride the bike... the only difference would be if you went and did some porting and or changed pipes but even then it wouldnt be to the point you need to launch it hard to get going. ANd yea Jeff at fast or even the shop Tricked mentioned in Aussie land could set you up with parts or even a full spare motor... (I forgot we had a AZ sponsor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 You in Arizona? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) There's sponsors in AZ ? That's a plus awesome, I'll most def look into them thanks man. As for the straight cuts awesome I just might end up going that route seems smarter since I'm mainly on road and if it won't lack top end that's even better , people seeing a banshee on a freeway , face is priceless. But yea I'll most def look into that thanks tricked n ride race live. 100 Good shit Larry feelin a little better about the weisco crank now hopefully she holds up but I'm probably gonna change out main bearing like said above and see how she does I'll keep you guys updated on how it holds up and trust me there will be abuse to it . I mean worst comes to worst live n learn I'll just end up getting hot rod crank or oem for next time. i just want to learn the whole motor in and out , but that helps out a lot thanks man I was wondering what to clean it out with so the surface will be that above , what should I use for the inside/out of the case for cleaning ? As for the piston size when the guy had my bike apart I remember we bored it out to 64.25 they weren't really beaten up maybe more one side than the other but I rather be safe and the guy had said to choose whichever bore above that. As for the type of oil I use Castro for the gas 32:1 (sometimes adding a little more oil- by accident because when I'm at the gas station I have to mix so it's not 100% accurate so I try to go a little over ) , and MTL Fluid endurance wet clutch approved 85wt has worked out so far unless there are something better for the street I'm all hears Now for the main jetting those are for sure up I think there honestly 320 its for sure around the 3s As for gearing went up 15t for top end only thing I see I haven't done is that radiator any suggestions on that? Thanks for the reply Larry and ye I'm in AZ Edited March 7, 2018 by fckawhipboughtabanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ride.race.live Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 PSI or ASI radiators on ebay are moe then fine and should come with new hoses . For the amount of hours you put on that motor... i'd maybe consider going all out and investing in the hinson spring loaded clutch basket with straight cuts.... that way you wont have to stress about wearing out cushions at the same time. Ive always cleaned my cases in a clean parts solvent wash pay. ive used an acid based cleaner before and got this white calcium buildup all over the motor... didnt effect anything but didnt look pretty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) Thought someone implied that you were in Australia. Reason I mentioned jetting is because when you run WFO for miles at a time jetting needs to be richer. The majority of piston cooling comes from the fuel mixture under the piston. That's why a piston run on the lean side will have carbon built up under the crown. A good shop has the Pistons on hand before boring so it can be honed to perfect fit. Edited March 7, 2018 by Larry's Shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fckawhipboughtabanshee Posted March 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 (edited) ASI Full Aluminum ATV Radiator For Yamaha banshee YFZ350 1987-2007 Yamaha Banshee YFZ 350 Hinson Billet Clutch Basket Heavy Duty Clutch Kit Gasket? These it? Anything else I might be able to use that might not make the engine look to bad? I try to keep it up looking nice till one of my exhaust' started leaking oil from the jug and o-ring area (front of motor) which started going all over the engine not squirting all crazy but at high speeds it started to leak back so now the quads isn't at it's best but I'm hoping it was jus the o-ring which I did replace twice but once it's all cleaned up we'll see. My bad but anything else that might help on getting all the oil of the jugs and case? Something that might make it shine or back to its original color? Yea Larry kept asking the guy what pistons to grab since he had the jugs but he just kept saying doesn't matter bring anyone so I just stuck with .50 over hoping that's the right one since I took my bike back from that guy , will probably jus send it to get the jugs takin care of But other than that is there anything else I might be missing to be able to complete this rebuild myself ? Got the tools, crank, pistons, flywheel puller , clutch holder . Gonna get the radiator, the Hinson kit, leak tester, (torque wrench which brand Is good for that? ) the clymers manuals has a lot of specific tools but since I have everything brand new do I need the feeler gauge, vernier caliper, dial indicator, small hole gauge ,compression gauge , strobe timing light? I really need that? Screw pitch gauge ? If so I don't mind getting the parts but if not needed I rather not just have them laying around Edited March 7, 2018 by fckawhipboughtabanshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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