brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Just got done changing out DG pipes to toomey t5s. The previous owner had a pod setup and was running 25 pilots and 220 mains. I changed to the airbox with no lid and the k&n pro flow setup I installed 300 mains and 27.5 pilots to start my plug chop. First off it was a lil hard to start than the previous setup. it started and idled real high if I pulled the choke it would idle back down. I've checked the choke tube and made sure the slides are installed correct. My question is if I'm gonna be running the airbox and filter setup does it need to be installed while making these adjustments or can I get the mixture screw right and sync the carbs and then put the box on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 An airbox with a K&N shouldn't be leaner than pods. I would say that your jetting is very close for that set up, especially the pilot jets. Are you sure you don't have the idles set too high or the throttle cable pulled too tight somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) Tors is removed and I have my idle screw barley making contact with the slide. I also have my cable adjusted so there is no tension on the cable. Previous owner had pods with 25 pilots and 220 mains. I think he was way lean however I changed exhaust and added the air box with pro flow filter and read up on jetting so decided to start with 300 main and 27.5 pilots and it's reving like it's lean but I also tried 30 pilots with the same outcome. I'm not sure if it matters but when I'm doing my adjusting I do not have the airbox on yet it's just straight into the carb so do I need to put the airbox and filter on to make these adjustments. Edited January 14, 2018 by brock42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Adding air box and filters shouldn't make that much of a difference, especially with the 30 pilot. Almost all aftermarket pipes with stock carbs require a 27.5 or 30 pilot. Did it rev upon starting before these changes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 It started and idled fine before the changes I just wanted t5s and to go back with the air box setup. If I hold my hand over the intake on the carbs and create a Lil suction it clears up and idles back down but when I move my hand it starts to rev up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Do I need to have my airbox and filter on when I'm making my air screw adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 It shouldn't be that sensitive, but go ahead and put your airbox and filter on and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Figured I may have a air leak. I leak down tested and it held 6psi well over 10 min before I released pressure. My plugs are old I'm gonna try a new set tomorrow and see if that could have anything to do with it. I will have to pull the air box back off to sync carbs with the sync tool Correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 If it held air that long you don't have an air leak.. Something is just out of whack. i would definitely get the carbs synced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 I set throttle wide open adjusted my slides until I got the dimples in the sight glass. Then set my air screws 1.5 turns out and my idle screw just touching the slides and I fire it up it's revving high enough to Max out my sync tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Then your slides are up too high. I haven't messed with stock carbs in years, but I bet when syncing them, they got set too high. Drop them back down some and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brock42 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 I tried both ways I removed all slack from cable and still the same problem like it's lean. If I pull the choke the idle will settle back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Syncing the carbs affects the slides.. Let the adjusters come back down on top of the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JUSTWANNARACE Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Start with the carbs at fully closed. Meaning back the idle screws out all the way and make sure you cable is completely slack. Make sure the choke tube is in and make sure the slides are in correctly. You should hear the slides hitting the bottom of the carb at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Sounds like the basics have been mentioned. However, did you need to wrestle the air box in? It's possible you cracked an intake boot and have an air leak and that is what's causing the lean hang on idle. The switch you made should definitely not be idling high unless carbs were adjusted or a cable is out of place. If all that's good, look in to the air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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