Ayesully810 Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 is your clutch ball in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Put your old lever on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted January 6, 2018 Report Share Posted January 6, 2018 19 hours ago, RagunCajun said: ^what? Understanding how it works and not worrying about the arrow like suggested means you shouldnt run into the problem of running out of throw or travel of disengagement. SMH...Common mechanical sense.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drizzy Posted January 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 Update. Ended up taking clutch cover off and adjusted the pancake bearing and put it back together and got the clutch to work properly. Today I got an Alba stem with anti vibe clamp which adds two inches to the bars in height. Now my clutch is back to not working 🤬 same issue as when I installed the asv levers. thinking parting ways with the damn asv levers never had any issues with stocks. Or thinking about replacing my cable..... not sure if they make a longer one?? Any advice would help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 13, 2018 Report Share Posted January 13, 2018 The mark lines up before the lever goes on. You should be able to pull the actuator over by hand and be roughly close when the shift rod, ball, and adjuster make contact. Loosen the lever adjuster all the way, then hook up the cable. Once hooked up adjust the lever. Do you own a Clymer's manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 It is possible you need a longer cable with that stem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drizzy Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 The mark lines up before the lever goes on. You should be able to pull the actuator over by hand and be roughly close when the shift rod, ball, and adjuster make contact. Loosen the lever adjuster all the way, then hook up the cable. Once hooked up adjust the lever. Do you own a Clymer's manual?No but I have a Yamaha service Manual. I haven’t tried to do that just adjusting after it’s hooked up at the case. I just know it was good when I had stock levers then I had to adjust pancake bearing. Now it’s back to not working with new stem and anti vibe clamp. I can get slack nd everything on levers. Have a feeling I just need to re adjust pancake again which is what I don’t want to do.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 I have ASV levers on all of our bikes. Zero issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 Op How much $ you want to part with those asv levers for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drizzy Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 It is possible you need a longer cable with that stem. Could be possible. Not sure if they make one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 If you start at the pancake bearing and work your way back to the lever, you shouldn't have any issues. Adjust the pancake until the actuator arm lines up with the arrow on the case. Once that's done, you're finished there. Then set it up on the clutch perch. Done. This really shouldn't take longer than 10-15 minutes tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceracerX Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 ^^^ what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drizzy Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 If you start at the pancake bearing and work your way back to the lever, you shouldn't have any issues. Adjust the pancake until the actuator arm lines up with the arrow on the case. Once that's done, you're finished there. Then set it up on the clutch perch. Done. This really shouldn't take longer than 10-15 minutes tops.Should the lines still line up even with aftermarket levers and the taller stem.? Been hearing to just tighten the pancake just enough until you feel resistance Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 The actuator arm should meet the arrow at the first pint of resistance on the pressure plate. Meaning, adjust the pancake.. Hold the pressure plate with your hand. Grab the actuator and pull it towards the clutch side. You want the pressure plate to START moving where the actuator meets the line on the case. Forget about your fucking handlebars or anything else at this point. If you haven't done step one, you're doing it wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted January 14, 2018 Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 7 minutes ago, Drizzy said: Should the lines still line up even with aftermarket levers and the taller stem.? Been hearing to just tighten the pancake just enough until you feel resistance Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Fuck that Youtube video, line up the arrows like YAMAHA recommends. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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