Wreckless_Rider Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Full engine rebuild, first headgasket leaked water from headbolt #1. Took head off and noticed it was leaking compression into a water jacket and thus pushing water up the nearest head stud and out. Yes it was properly torqued 3 times after build. Now, second vitos headgasket. 2 coats copper spray, correctly torqued twice, let it sit for 3hrs after a short ride. Popped radiator cap and it was pressurized. What the hell? It shouldnt have pressure after 3hrs sitting should it? I didnt even ride it enough to get to full engine temp. Head looked straight on the straight edge. Cylinders and rest of engine are brand new with 1.8hrs ride time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Check head for flat? Top of cylinder deck flat? All old gasket material off of deck and head? Head stud holes chamfered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wreckless_Rider Posted November 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Head looka flat with straight edge. Deck on both cylindera looks flat. All material removed thoroughly. Explain chamfering of the head stud holes? If it is what i think it is, there not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 before taking a bunch of shit apart check it with a cooling system tester from auto zone loaner tools. honestly should of probly done this right away after rebuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wreckless_Rider Posted November 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Why would i do it when i could clearly see that it was leaking coolant. Had to be takin apart anyways. Now that it still might be doing it, i will put the tester on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 25, 2017 Report Share Posted November 25, 2017 Pull jugs. Remove head studs. Lap all surfaces. Install head studs. Re assemble top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 wow thats alot of work without knowing if theres even a leak. autozone open to 9pm every day. figured he would got it pressured up by now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 13 hours ago, registered user said: wow thats alot of work without knowing if theres even a leak. autozone open to 9pm every day. figured he would got it pressured up by now He said there IS a leak. I definitely agree it's wise to check before taking stuff apart, but he claims it definitely has a leak and already took it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 #1- only use oem head gasket #2- if you have access to a flat piece of granite tape sand paper to and sand the tops of cylinders and bottom of head, I use a three paper progression 100,220,400 finish. Sand in a figure 8 pattern and count revolution so you can evenly do both cylinders if you have no measuring equipment. #3 - during assembly slide cylinders on without tightening base nuts, then tighten all head bolts good n tight then do cylinder base nuts. Then torque head I use three bond 1211 instead of copper spray. I've used three bond in place of a gasket and it's held up so I think it will work just fine for your application. I'm also a firm believer in testing everything before tear down and after assembly. Make sure your allowing 24hrs cure time for any glues or sprays your using, if it's cold out it takes longer. If it's not fully set up it will get pulled/pushed out of crevices and seep leaving you with wasted labor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted November 26, 2017 Report Share Posted November 26, 2017 4 hours ago, trickedcarbine said: He said there IS a leak. I definitely agree it's wise to check before taking stuff apart, but he claims it definitely has a leak and already took it apart. the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 This sounds like it should be a pretty obvious issue that should stand out. Emphasis needs to also be on flatness of the top deck of the cylinders. I have never been a fan of having two separate cylinders with a common cylinder head but thats what we got. I might recommend to obtain some Persian Blue or equivalent from a parts store and put a very light film on the head without the gasket and torque 5ftlb. Then loosen and remove head straight up without sliding it around. Look at the contact on the head and cylinders to determine where the issue is. I have seen where two different base gaskets were used or the locating dowels are not placed on the cylinder bases. The missing dowels can cause the cylinders to be out of place and cause misalignment once the head is torqued. A proper precision straight edge can also be used on the top of the cylinders and use a .001" feeler gauge to determine if there is an issue. I do not recommend tightening the head before the base nuts as if things are note aligned, the base can develop a leak. Brandon Mull Engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 ive seen cylinders get hung up because the dowel recess in the cylinder bottom was machined off center. he said the tops looked good with a straight edge so i didnt think to mention it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toybreaker Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 On 11/24/2017 at 9:55 PM, Wreckless_Rider said: Head looka flat with straight edge. Deck on both cylindera looks flat. All material removed thoroughly. Explain chamfering of the head stud holes? If it is what i think it is, there not... there should be a 45* angle at the top of the head stud holes, 1mm (1/32" or so) deep if the top of the threads just ends with a jagged type burr the torque from the nut could pull the top surface up and create a leak. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wreckless_Rider Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said: the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance If the piston in the cylinder that is leaking pressure into the cooling system is above all of the ports, it will hold its pressure. Dont you think? Only had maybe 5lb pressure in it. Pretty sure it would hold that no problem. Think outside of the box. Dont bash me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wreckless_Rider Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) On 11/26/2017 at 3:00 PM, registered user said: imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance AND for the record bub. Pulled head off and obvious compression leak into coolant port was found. On left cylinder. After further inspection, cylinder head itself was flat, except for a small raised portion right between a coolant passage and the combustion chamber. Half ass machine shop in town. SO in other words, if the piston is above all the ports in the cylinder, and the rings are healthy to pass a leakdown test, then the pressure will infact stay held in the cooling system. Bought a cool head. Problem solved Edited November 28, 2017 by Wreckless_Rider 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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