Ayesully810 Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, blowit said: I am sure I went over proper grounding at some point. I will just point out that regardless of if something "works", grounding is many times used for protection of circuits and humans. Solid state circuits can get zapped by stray voltage. I remember a very sharp engineer I worked with that did not understand why I insisted on a safety ground on an AC motor driven machine because it was working just fine. Only 2mo later someone got a nasty shock from that machine because the wiring had made contact with ground and energized the chassis. It is never a bad idea to keep negative/neutral/ground all at the same potential.....0V As to the OP question, I would first be testing the stator performance before anything else, then work forward. As well, IIRC, the CDI only has one kill circuit in which if I remember correct, if the black/white is connected to the black, the CDI will not fire. That should serve as a simple way to verify the CDI is in "on" mode. This works back through the TORS, key switch, and bar switch. On later models, there is an additional "rev limit" circuit for the park brake but will still allow an idle start. Question, I have toyed at the idea of building and offering a plug-in stator/pickup coil tester since a simple ohm meter does not tell the whole story and most people do not have an oscilloscope around. Would that be of interest to anyone? so the whole idea behind that is to be used as a safety precaution? how could that happen to a banshee? not being a smart ass asking genuinely, Im not trying to ride an electric chair at 80 mph Edited November 8, 2017 by Ayesully810 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 My comment about grounding in this post is a mere generality and example. However, the secondary of a Banshee coil does indeed generate 5k-7k volts. As well, the stator ignition coil can generate AC voltage in excess of 70V. I am NOT saying you will receive a shock, this is more about applying redundancies to protect sensitive circuits. The CDI is considered a solid state device in which the I/Os will have a peak voltage/amperage threshold, and then fail. What becomes interesting with AC voltage is is can "stack" or amplify in a return or back voltage. This is why there is resistance in the secondary spark circuit...to prevent back voltage from returning to the primary and back to the CDI. If the back voltage is in phase with another back voltage event, the voltage can far exceed the rated back voltage of the device. In a nut shell, it is always a good idea to ensure grounded things all have the same 0V potential so there is not a build up of voltage. I am not implying Yamaha doesn't know what they are doing, and the Banshee system works when operating properly. But what if the secondary voltage leaks for some reason? You don;t want that stray voltage to end up in the stator coil, in which the insulation is not rated for that, and most certainly the input of the CDI would not handle it either. You want to ensure that voltage has a strong alternate reference so it will use that instead. Hopefully some of that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I checked my flywheel today shook it, sounded like 2 pieces of metal inside rattling, is that normal? Also since i had power to lights i ran the yellow wire from stator to orange wire had power to coil but none out of coil and tried running that wire to the wires in the cdi harness to see if it would push power to the coil and got nothing, would this be the cdi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Lol.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 your fly wheel shouldn't rattle. It can still work fine if it does have slight rattle, if its really bad it might not fire and If it does it could cut out at higher rpms. I have no idea what you are talking about with the rest that you said lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 8 hours ago, Ayesully810 said: your fly wheel shouldn't rattle. It can still work fine if it does have slight rattle, if its really bad it might not fire and If it does it could cut out at higher rpms. I have no idea what you are talking about with the rest that you said lol I had power to the lights from the stator through the yellow wire so i ran it to orange wire that runs to the coil. I still didnt have spark. The stator tested to spec on ohms and coil seemed to test good as well but with power to the coil i still had no spark or power to the plugs. Im new to testing electrical systems but understand it to a degree lol. I guess i will try a flywheel and see where it takes me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keno Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 I checked my flywheel today shook it, sounded like 2 pieces of metal inside rattling, is that normal? Also since i had power to lights i ran the yellow wire from stator to orange wire had power to coil but none out of coil and tried running that wire to the wires in the cdi harness to see if it would push power to the coil and got nothing, would this be the cdi? No, don't tie the lighting circuit into the ignition circuit. Btw, the coil sparks because of a collapsing magnetic field when power is removed from the coil. So tying the headlights to your coil is going to make the coil not spark OR overheat and die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted November 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 On 11/11/2017 at 6:31 PM, Keno said: No, don't tie the lighting circuit into the ignition circuit. Btw, the coil sparks because of a collapsing magnetic field when power is removed from the coil. So tying the headlights to your coil is going to make the coil not spark OR overheat and die. Yea it didnt work lol i bought a new flywheel no spark im going to try the new cdi on my lunch break... this thing is getting so frustrating. The flywheel has play in it with the key, that wouldnt cause no spark by chance would it? Also when i got the bike the stator was soaked in diesel fuel with the motor to clean out the engine, could that cause no spark but still have power to my lights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keno Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 Have you checked the resistances that hopedupandcutdown posted? If the resistances are correct, then no problem with the stator. Lighting part of the stator is different than the ignition part. Have you checked every wire in your harness for continuity? Did you ever check the Run/Stop switch? check the wiring diagram at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted January 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 On 12/1/2017 at 8:39 PM, Keno said: Have you checked the resistances that hopedupandcutdown posted? If the resistances are correct, then no problem with the stator. Lighting part of the stator is different than the ignition part. Have you checked every wire in your harness for continuity? Did you ever check the Run/Stop switch? check the wiring diagram at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html I tested the wire harness and stator they test good. I tested the keyswitch and it didnt pull any numbers so i cut the harness wires and tied the black wire to the red and black wire. I pull my killseitch apart and found that the black ground wire was broken at the solder but with that broken i just wouldnt be able to kill the engine right? Do the plugs both need to be grounded to spark? I have a dynatek cdi and coil on its way. Hopefully that is the cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ssantoni73 Posted January 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2018 On 12/1/2017 at 8:39 PM, Keno said: Have you checked the resistances that hopedupandcutdown posted? If the resistances are correct, then no problem with the stator. Lighting part of the stator is different than the ignition part. Have you checked every wire in your harness for continuity? Did you ever check the Run/Stop switch? check the wiring diagram at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html I tested the wire harness and stator they test good. I tested the keyswitch and it didnt pull any numbers so i cut the harness wires and tied the black wire to the red and black wire. I pull my killseitch apart and found that the black ground wire was broken at the solder but with that broken i just wouldnt be able to kill the engine right? Do the plugs both need to be grounded to spark? I have a dynatek cdi and coil on its way. Hopefully that is the cure. Got it fired up key switch turned out bad. Now to put it together. Thank you guys for all the help along the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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