BurntLegs Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 (edited) Banshee has slowly been getting tougher to start, especially in moist weather. Troubleshot it down to a weak spark and have been going thru the electrical system. Pretty much troubleshot down to a bad CDI or plug wires. Idle sounds rough to me but it still idles no problem, spark takes a few kicks to faintly see it. Just for shits and tits i hooked a meter up to the plugs, drastically different readings/no readings with as consistent kicks as i could give it Are there any tangible benefits to the timing curves in aftermarket CDIs? Currently running +4 plate. 421 Driveline LP trail bike Heres the idle. Cold start but had been idling about a min prior to video Edited October 13, 2017 by BurntLegs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZillaFreak Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 If you can program the timing curve, you can gain power. Since you no long have a stock banshee engine, your engine might like a different curve. The issue, you might need months on a dyno and playing with it to find the perfect curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Yea i think the CDI might be more "technical" then I plan on getting. I have a butt dyno and a hole saw for chopping plugs. Flipping a switch and testing different timing tables would be cool, but i should have dyno access/know banshees better to be doing that. Thank you for the input 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted October 13, 2017 Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 If you are trying to test the voltage output at the spark plug, I would be surprised if you have not toasted your meter yet! No DMM is rated for that voltage. Test only the resistance in the wires and coil. If the bike otherwise runs fine, I would not be suspecting spark, but carb sync. This largely affects idle and start performance if one carb is not touching down. Or you may have pilot jet issue. They plug up easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 1 minute ago, blowit said: If you are trying to test the voltage output at the spark plug, I would be surprised if you have not toasted your meter yet! No DMM is rated for that voltage. Test only the resistance in the wires and coil. If the bike otherwise runs fine, I would not be suspecting spark, but carb sync. This largely affects idle and start performance if one carb is not touching down. Or you may have pilot jet issue. They plug up easily. Yea it was an all around dumb idea but the tester survived... I do need to test the wire/coil R, havnt done that yet. Its normal to barely see a spark, its more like a pass/fail test? Now that you say the sync thing...yea it does sound like theyre out of sync. Maybe an idle screw wiggled around. I did loc tite them in but then had to fine tune one of them after the loc tite dried. Sucks putting 100% trust in the tool, cant see/feel the slides with the airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted October 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2017 Well i think im burning tranny oil or coolant. This bad smoking is new. At idle its a little more smokey, thought its just cold. Let it idle while i check carb sync(thats good), still smoking after that. So i decide to drive it thru the yard, it felt fine(not lean or rich), but the smoke seemed to exponentially increase as i throttled up. Quickly got paranoid and killed it. Letting her cool off and its fluid/plug check time. Now im wishing it was electrical!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 14, 2017 Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 8 hours ago, BurntLegs said: Yea it was an all around dumb idea but the tester survived... I do need to test the wire/coil R, havnt done that yet. Its normal to barely see a spark, its more like a pass/fail test? Now that you say the sync thing...yea it does sound like theyre out of sync. Maybe an idle screw wiggled around. I did loc tite them in but then had to fine tune one of them after the loc tite dried. Sucks putting 100% trust in the tool, cant see/feel the slides with the airbox. Id start with syncing carbs first, using a tool is really the best way to get them perfect at idle. you can get em pretty close with out it, but syncing them at idle is with a tool is best. like mull said cleaning carbs and syncing would be a good place to start. https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-Deluxe-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1507940497&sr=8-4&keywords=carb+sync+tool -how I usually rule out an electrical problem is I will first trim back the wires on the secondary leads so the are fresh -then ohm test all electrical components with multi meter (stator, coil, plug caps etc) check wireharness. are you just breaking this motor in? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted October 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2017 The engine has 4.8 hrs on it (according to the cheapo hr meter). I didn't start riding it hard until around 2 hrs. I have that tool and it is what I've been using, I have it dialed in as close as even as I can get, I noticed the tool doesnt seem too accurate...a full turn on the idle screw make it barely move, but theyre both sitting at 9(whatever units). The part that the airbox makes difficult is adjusting the throttle cables, really all I have for that is feeling the slides snap and an inspection mirror to look down the intake tubes. I think I have a leak somewhere and it has just slowly been getting worse, causing these starting issues, and now it is full blown burning something. Drained all the gas from the carb bowls, mixed up some fresh 32:1 Castor 927 and its still abnormally smokey. Prior to this I did idle/midrange/and a 1-3 plug chop, so it was fairly on jet. It's gotten a bit colder in the past week but I was expecting lean from that. Smoking out of both tail pipes about evenly. Looking for a blue hue from trans oil (Rotella T6) but I'm not seeing it, smell is a tad off. Coolant was maybe a 1/4" under the cap and no signs of coolant on the plugs. My first thought was right crank seal(seemed kind of leak prone when I was assembling the engine) but that wouldn't cause both sides to smoke...in fact I cant think of much that would cause both sides to smoke... Guess I'll start prepping it for another leakdown, fuck I hate leakdowns. I'd like to apologize, everytime I make a post I get a few posts in and pretty much realize I already know what I need to do, end up just commenting on what I'm doing lol. That said I really do appreciate the input, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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