SandSlingerOR Posted September 26, 2017 Report Posted September 26, 2017 I like the progress so far man. The lsr aarms and yfz shocks will work to a extent, go ahead and run it for alittle while if you want. If you do decide you want to change your set up there's a few options out there. If you want to keep the Yfz shocks our sponsor on here fireball racing makes aarms that match up perfectly with those shocks. Obviously you'll have to sell those lsr aarms to make up the cost a bit. You could sell the Yfz shocks and pick up a pretty decent pair of work shocks for cheaper than Elka's etc.. to work with the LSR arms. Just trying to help! Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 23 minutes ago, SandSlingerOR said: I like the progress so far man. The lsr aarms and yfz shocks will work to a extent, go ahead and run it for alittle while if you want. If you do decide you want to change your set up there's a few options out there. If you want to keep the Yfz shocks our sponsor on here fireball racing makes aarms that match up perfectly with those shocks. Obviously you'll have to sell those lsr aarms to make up the cost a bit. You could sell the Yfz shocks and pick up a pretty decent pair of work shocks for cheaper than Elka's etc.. to work with the LSR arms. Just trying to help! Thanks @SandSlingerOR ! I'll check out Works as an option vs Elka. The bumper, grab bar, and skids landed today 🙂 I'll post pics soon! Quote
ride.race.live Posted September 26, 2017 Report Posted September 26, 2017 Works shocks float around for fairly cheap! heck there was a nice clean set fully just serviced front and back for 600$ shipped within the USA on the facebook Banshee page.... I can bet you spent more if not close to 600 bucks for those plastics grab bar and front bumper... There is 0 benefit to spending ANY kind of money on stock yfz shocks... they get by as people say as they "FIT" but it throws everything off along with bump steer ect... like I said you would of been just as well of running the stock shocks.... adjustable? sure but no matter what you do their not going to ride even close to as nice as proper shocks... If your going to spend 750$ on a arms at fireball you would be NUTS to run 100$ shocks. on them.... just my opinion on that one.. You have a crap ton of options for shocks... Ohlins, Fox, Elka, Works, PEP, stadium, axis ect..... always a clean set floating around for cheap usually... Also there would be 0 issues running stage 1 elka's for what you do... 100x better then the yfz shocks thats for sure.... dont get hung up on all that adjustability.... how often are you custom setting your stock rear shock? same would go for the fronts... the only nice thing would be to pay the little bit extra for rebound so you can tweak that between trails and MX... ortherwise everything else would stay the same Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 3 hours ago, ride.race.live said: Works shocks float around for fairly cheap! heck there was a nice clean set fully just serviced front and back for 600$ shipped within the USA on the facebook Banshee page.... I can bet you spent more if not close to 600 bucks for those plastics grab bar and front bumper... There is 0 benefit to spending ANY kind of money on stock yfz shocks... they get by as people say as they "FIT" but it throws everything off along with bump steer ect... like I said you would of been just as well of running the stock shocks.... adjustable? sure but no matter what you do their not going to ride even close to as nice as proper shocks... If your going to spend 750$ on a arms at fireball you would be NUTS to run 100$ shocks. on them.... just my opinion on that one.. You have a crap ton of options for shocks... Ohlins, Fox, Elka, Works, PEP, stadium, axis ect..... always a clean set floating around for cheap usually... Also there would be 0 issues running stage 1 elka's for what you do... 100x better then the yfz shocks thats for sure.... dont get hung up on all that adjustability.... how often are you custom setting your stock rear shock? same would go for the fronts... the only nice thing would be to pay the little bit extra for rebound so you can tweak that between trails and MX... ortherwise everything else would stay the same Cool thanks @ride.race.live! I'll keep an eye out for a those brands. $600 shipped is reasonable for brand new shocks. Better than $1500+ anyway Quote
Trick2stroke Posted September 26, 2017 Report Posted September 26, 2017 Sometimes, Mackington, the members here mean well but don't approach a newer member in the friendliest of ways lol. Usually criticizing right off the bat and then a new member becomes defensive and tries to justify their purchases and it's just a back and forth type deal instead of an exchange of information. Not ideal for anyone. What ride race live is getting at is although a shock will bolt up and have adjustability and even be hundreds cheaper doesn't mean it will function in the way you may expect and in the long run would have been money better spent on an appropriate shock. Alas, you've already spent the money so we won't harp on this point although you may decide to try and resell for a basic set of double rate works or the like. Getting to the general information side of things, longer a arms do not accept longer shocks unless the point where the shock bolts to the a arm has been moved to accept this added shock length. Otherwise your ball joints can be put at dangerous angles that could cause them to wear out quickly or worse yet to fail and not only damage your expensive quad but hurt you or others in the process. No matter which of these outcomes the long term result is more money spent defeating the purpose of a cheaper shock. Another point to make, shock length doesn't equate to shock travel. Suspension can get pretty convoluted but the main idea here is using parts that mechanically work together, not just bolting up. With older technology quads like the banshee the natural reflex is to try and use improved parts from newer quads like the 450's, raptor, etc... This can sometimes be done safely I.E. YFZ spindles, hubs, calipers, MC will significantly improve braking performance and improve unsprung weight of the wheel/suspension. Although it's a part from another quad it doesn't carry any dangerous side effects. It may change the suspension geometry slightly due to different angles of the ball joint but in my experience this is negligible and the benefits are apparent. It's your quad, I understand wanting to make it your own and do all the cosmetic stuff but if you're on a budget I always say suspension is the area you should devote the most to. Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 2 minutes ago, Trick2stroke said: Sometimes, Mackington, the members here mean well but don't approach a newer member in the friendliest of ways lol. Usually criticizing right off the bat and then a new member becomes defensive and tries to justify their purchases and it's just a back and forth type deal instead of an exchange of information. Not ideal for anyone. What ride race live is getting at is although a shock will bolt up and have adjustability and even be hundreds cheaper doesn't mean it will function in the way you may expect and in the long run would have been money better spent on an appropriate shock. Alas, you've already spent the money so we won't harp on this point although you may decide to try and resell for a basic set of double rate works or the like. Getting to the general information side of things, longer a arms do not accept longer shocks unless the point where the shock bolts to the a arm has been moved to accept this added shock length. Otherwise your ball joints can be put at dangerous angles that could cause them to wear out quickly or worse yet to fail and not only damage your expensive quad but hurt you or others in the process. No matter which of these outcomes the long term result is more money spent defeating the purpose of a cheaper shock. Another point to make, shock length doesn't equate to shock travel. Suspension can get pretty convoluted but the main idea here is using parts that mechanically work together, not just bolting up. With older technology quads like the banshee the natural reflex is to try and use improved parts from newer quads like the 450's, raptor, etc... This can sometimes be done safely I.E. YFZ spindles, hubs, calipers, MC will significantly improve braking performance and improve unsprung weight of the wheel/suspension. Although it's a part from another quad it doesn't carry any dangerous side effects. It may change the suspension geometry slightly due to different angles of the ball joint but in my experience this is negligible and the benefits are apparent. It's your quad, I understand wanting to make it your own and do all the cosmetic stuff but if you're on a budget I always say suspension is the area you should devote the most to. Well said @Trick2stroke ! Everyone has been somewhat helpful though which is cool lol. I appreciate all the info! Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) Alba Racing Bumper installed. Edited September 26, 2017 by Mackington 1 Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 (edited) Extreme Manufacturing Wide Grab Bar installed. Had to take off the rubber grommets on the tail light to get it mounted. Also had to use different bolts. Edited September 26, 2017 by Mackington Quote
Trick2stroke Posted September 26, 2017 Report Posted September 26, 2017 Another point I failed to mention, if you decide to resell the yfz shocks. When you're looking at used suspension there's also the spring rates and valving to consider, not just length and stroke. You will honestly see better performance from a new set of basic/bottom of the line double or triple rate shocks of any brand set up for your specific atv, weight, a arm length, and riding style vs a used set of top of the line, stage 5 elka's for example, that are too long, sprung for different length a arms/rider weight, valved for XC instead of MX etc... Those things aren't adjustable with shock settings. Just something to consider. Quote
Mackington Posted September 26, 2017 Author Report Posted September 26, 2017 4 minutes ago, Trick2stroke said: Another point I failed to mention, if you decide to resell the yfz shocks. When you're looking at used suspension there's also the spring rates and valving to consider, not just length and stroke. You will honestly see better performance from a new set of basic/bottom of the line double or triple rate shocks of any brand set up for your specific atv, weight, a arm length, and riding style vs a used set of top of the line, stage 5 elka's for example, that are too long, sprung for different length a arms/rider weight, valved for XC instead of MX etc... Those things aren't adjustable with shock settings. Just something to consider. Ahh cool that makes sense! Searching for shocks now instead of working lol Quote
Mackington Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Posted September 28, 2017 Some parts got here today! Still waiting on stuff before installing though. Quote
kawa110 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Posted September 28, 2017 Let us know how "crisp" your throttle feels after you put the boost bottle on. Quote
Mackington Posted September 28, 2017 Author Report Posted September 28, 2017 Just now, kawa110 said: Let us know how "crisp" your throttle feels after you put the boost bottle on. Lol i've read mixed reviews! Some friends highly recommend while others say it's BS Quote
Ayesully810 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Posted September 28, 2017 real friends don't let their banshee friends buy boost bottles 1 Quote
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