Rawnold Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 22 hours ago, Ayesully810 said: Yeah that's a rich condition. Where are you air screws at? also what pilot jet Completely forgot to check what pilots I could open it up again real quick if need be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 (edited) So I'm having a bit of an issue with my idle screw, got my air screw one turn from closed. but when I turn my idle screw the nut behind the screw turns too, I tried to tighten it all the way down but it doesn't seem to fasten down and I'm stripping the nut in the process.. what's going on here?? also left slide in the carb seems to be higher than the right slide. As I open the throttle wide open both dots line up fine. But as I open it and look through the intake holes I can see the left slide dissapear completely while the right slide is still slightly visible. pls halp e- I've watched videos on how to tune the carbs and it says that for the idle screw two and a half turns in from the moment you feel your slide start to raise. Thing is on my right slide I don't feel any slide movement as I adjust the screw and it's very stiff. As for the left side I start to feel the slide move as the screw it almost all the way in, only allows for about turn and a half from that point. So something seems to be wrong Edited August 15, 2017 by Rawnold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 My idle screw threads seem to be stripped. Looks like the person who put them in inserted them wrong. As I screw out it's so stiff it begins to turn the nut behind it as well. And as I turn in I can see some metal shavings come out (pieces of threading) Am I going to have to replace this whole idle screw? If so could the threading on the carb also be damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted August 15, 2017 Report Share Posted August 15, 2017 Your carb bodies are certainly FUBAR And you obviously have no idea how a jam nut works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, hoppedupandcutdown said: Your carb bodies are certainly FUBAR And you obviously have no idea how a jam nut works What's the solution here? I definitely understand how a locknut works but it won't lock down, just keeps spinning. anyways got the bike to turn on and idle pretty decent, as soon as I dropped to first gear quad shut off. Had to throttle to keep it alive. So I took it out down the street to warm it up and revved it hard through all gears wot at 6th, then as I'm coming to a stop the quad shuts off on me.. gives me a very hard time to get back on, I kicked the hell out of it nothing choked it got it to crank but shut right off soon as I took off the choke. Turned off gas kicked bout 10x wot got it to crank on turned on fuel it shut off once again and then bam it's cranking on again. i rode back home pretty hard, almost wot and the quad felt boggy.. got home doesn't look like I over heated in any way cylinders weren't extremely hot. Spark plugs looked dry and dark brown on the electrode. Not wet and foulish like before. thoughts? Edited August 16, 2017 by Rawnold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Also noticed quad blowing out a lot of white smoke as I was pulling out of my yard in the low gears 1st and 2nd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 DID U FIND OUT YOUR PILOT YET u need ur bike to be able to idle and ride first before u can do the mains. That is gunna have to do with your pilot and slide height 1 Sounds like your carbs are not Syncd properly 2 sounds like your threads on your carb body are effed if metal shavings are coming out. 3 take your idle screw all the way out and hit ur threads of that thing with some pb or wd and loosen that jam nut up all the way so its not so stiff. Its possible that who ever tors deleted your carbs didn't grind down the part where the idle screw goes in far enough and ur not able to screw them in far enough to get it to idle. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 So slightly ported with CPI n pods and your running 290s with 100 over pistons. You definitely have have throttle cable play issues and sync issues. Have done a squish test yet . With that overbore I have seen the pistons kissing the fire ring on the dome and slightly lifting it allowing fluid in. . Might be something to look into. I always back my idle screws all the way out set cable play/pull then set idle sync with a vacuum guage. IMO your jetting is lean for your mods . Are you sure the quad shutting off isn't a seazure ? Your plugs can also look fouled from antifreeze seeping in. I would make sure those domes are clearance enough for those pistons just to be safe. Is there any signs of deto on the plugs or pistons tops 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) 13 hours ago, sleeper06 said: So slightly ported with CPI n pods and your running 290s with 100 over pistons. You definitely have have throttle cable play issues and sync issues. Have done a squish test yet . With that overbore I have seen the pistons kissing the fire ring on the dome and slightly lifting it allowing fluid in. . Might be something to look into. I always back my idle screws all the way out set cable play/pull then set idle sync with a vacuum guage. IMO your jetting is lean for your mods . Are you sure the quad shutting off isn't a seazure ? Your plugs can also look fouled from antifreeze seeping in. I would make sure those domes are clearance enough for those pistons just to be safe. Is there any signs of deto on the plugs or pistons tops Haven't looked at my piston tops as I haven been removed my head but I had the same guy who bored my cylinders open up my domes as well. So those domes should be good also. But how would I know if it's turning off because it's seizing? i will take off carbs again today and remove those idle screws to see what's going on. As for pilots like it said I forgot to check what it was before I put it back together. I'll let you know what they are today Just so you guys know my quad was idling just fine before I took off the carbs to adjust the jet e- no signs of deto on the plugs and compression is still 150 on both sides Edited August 16, 2017 by Rawnold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 ALSO the quad idles in N but dies as I drop first with no gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowflyin Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 What do you mean by "open up the domes"?Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Lowflyin said: What do you mean by "open up the domes"? Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk The rim on the bottom of the dome, I got domes from driveline performance they were cut to 66.50 but the fella that did my cylinders said they need to be bigger than your bore so he drilled out the rim slightly bigger 67.5 if I recall. pilot jet is 25, just checked it.. too low? e- also took out my idle screws. my left side carb threading seems okay as the bottom of the screws look good and it goes in smoothly by hand (5+ turns). but my right side carb threading seems to be going bad as I can only get about 1 turn in with the screw before I feel too much resistance to screw by hand. Can I tap my carb threading to make it better or if I tap will I have to make the threading larger therefore screwing it up? seems the nut was stripping the top of the screw that's where those shavings were coming from Edited August 16, 2017 by Rawnold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowflyin Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 The rim on the bottom of the dome, I got domes from driveline performance they were cut to 66.50 but the fella that did my cylinders said they need to be bigger than your bore so he drilled out the rim slightly bigger 67.5 if I recall. pilot jet is 25, just checked it.. too low?You're done angle is off then most likely if he just took enough off for clearance. Figure out your squishSent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 2 minutes ago, Lowflyin said: You're done angle is off then most likely if he just took enough off for clearance. Figure out your squish Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk Dome angle you mean?? I will I'll look into what a squish is rn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowflyin Posted August 16, 2017 Report Share Posted August 16, 2017 Dome angle you mean?? I will I'll look into what a squish is rnYes dome angleSent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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