Sameltoe Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 New to the page but I recently bought a 96, stock except for pipes (from what I can tell), the other day I was riding and I can't shift into third gear while in high RPM's but can while in lower RPM's. immediately after the up shifting issue, when I down shift it doesn't always seem to "catch" and it won't down shift. Any thoughts? All I've been able to find is possibly worn shift forks. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Grab your self a Clymers Manual. The items to check will be worn shift shaft, out of adjustment eccentric screw, and verify they are all adjusted properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sameltoe Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 2 hours ago, trickedcarbine said: Grab your self a Clymers Manual. The items to check will be worn shift shaft, out of adjustment eccentric screw, and verify they are all adjusted properly. Haha, that's pretty much how I was going to approach the situation. Was hoping someone would have some answers though. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sameltoe Posted August 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2017 So after taking the clutch cover off to adjust the clutch, I found a whole world of issues. 1. Shift shaft. (Why it wasn't "catching" when down shifting) 2. Kick start has a chip in the gear (still works fine) 3. Clutch basket, inner hub and pressure plate are worn out. 4. Fibers and plates are done for. 5. Nut holding the basket and inner hub in was almost impossible to take off because of previous attempts to take it off. 6. Quite a few shavings in the oil 😅 7. Almost forgot this one, shift shaft bolt snapped. I'll try to upload pictures, seeing as it won't let me due to file size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmon_slayer06 Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Make sure to replace idler gear bushing and c clip. Clutch basket teeth will get grooved. A little filing to smooth these out is fine and makes a huge difference. I'm on the original clutch setup on mine and it's older than most people on here and I touch it up every time it's apart. I don't know what the limit is on these. They say the anodized ones have a hard coating that does not groove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 20 hours ago, salmon_slayer06 said: Make sure to replace idler gear bushing and c clip. Clutch basket teeth will get grooved. A little filing to smooth these out is fine and makes a huge difference. I'm on the original clutch setup on mine and it's older than most people on here and I touch it up every time it's apart. I don't know what the limit is on these. They say the anodized ones have a hard coating that does not groove. depending on how grooved the basket is I wouldn't file them down. if its minor sure but if its grooved to hell and ur running basic mods just get a used oem one that's not grooved or billet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 sounds like an average day in a older banshee. I would split motor completely down plan on a full rebuild. maybe leak test it first. replace all clutch componets basket inner outer hub new clutch pack. ( chariot basket OEM inner and outer FAST HD OEM clutch pack) do a "pro mod transmission" replace all the broken bits in there everything that has to do with shifting it. then what ever the rest of the motor needs probably a top/ bottom end rebuild too.. unless it all specs out ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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