Jump to content

Troubled shifting


Sameltoe

Recommended Posts

New to the page but I recently bought a 96, stock except for pipes (from what I can tell), the other day I was riding and I can't shift into third gear while in high RPM's but can while in lower RPM's. immediately after the up shifting issue, when I down shift it doesn't always seem to "catch" and it won't down shift. 

Any thoughts? All I've been able to find is possibly worn shift forks.

Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, trickedcarbine said:

Grab your self a Clymers Manual. The items to check will be worn shift shaft, out of adjustment eccentric screw, and verify they are all adjusted properly.

Haha, that's pretty much how I was going to approach the situation. Was hoping someone would have some answers though. 

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So after taking the clutch cover off to adjust the clutch, I found a whole world of issues. 

1. Shift shaft. (Why it wasn't "catching" when down shifting)

2. Kick start has a chip in the gear (still works fine)

3. Clutch basket, inner hub and pressure plate are worn out. 

4. Fibers and plates are done for. 

5. Nut holding the basket and inner hub in was almost impossible to take off because of previous attempts to take it off. 

6. Quite a few shavings in the oil 😅

7. Almost forgot this one, shift shaft bolt snapped. 

I'll try to upload pictures, seeing as it won't let me due to file size

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Make sure to replace idler gear bushing and c clip. Clutch basket teeth will get grooved. A little filing to smooth these out is fine and makes a huge difference. I'm on the original clutch setup on mine and it's older than most people on here and I touch it up every time it's apart. I don't know what the limit is on these. They say the anodized ones have a hard coating that does not groove. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, salmon_slayer06 said:

Make sure to replace idler gear bushing and c clip. Clutch basket teeth will get grooved. A little filing to smooth these out is fine and makes a huge difference. I'm on the original clutch setup on mine and it's older than most people on here and I touch it up every time it's apart. I don't know what the limit is on these. They say the anodized ones have a hard coating that does not groove.

depending on how grooved the basket is I wouldn't file them down. if its minor sure but if its grooved to hell and ur running basic mods just get a used oem one that's not grooved or billet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

sounds like an average day in a older banshee.

 

I would  

 

split motor completely down  plan on a full rebuild.  maybe leak test it first.

replace all clutch componets  basket inner outer hub new clutch pack.  ( chariot basket OEM inner and outer  FAST HD OEM clutch pack)

do a "pro mod transmission" 

replace all the broken bits in there  everything that has to do with shifting it.  

 

then what ever the rest of the motor needs  probably a top/ bottom end rebuild too..  unless it all specs out ok. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...