BansheeBird Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 Ok so i have a 1997 yamaha banshee and im looking to make a bad bitch of it. So I plan on doing 20cc domes, 34mm carb, advanced timing, dyna cdi, full fmf powercore 2 exhaust. So what I am wondering is with all this should i run 110 octane? also do i have to program the dyna before i put it on and go riding? and what are the specs for the air/ idle adjustment on the 34mm carbs for 70 degree weather? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 Ok so i have a 1997 yamaha banshee and im looking to make a bad bitch of it. So I plan on doing 20cc domes, 34mm carb, advanced timing, dyna cdi, full fmf powercore 2 exhaust. So what I am wondering is with all this should i run 110 octane? also do i have to program the dyna before i put it on and go riding? and what are the specs for the air/ idle adjustment on the 34mm carbs for 70 degree weather?20cc domes will get you more compression and probably make a torquier motor. You'll need to run a high enough octane fuel to prevent deto. What kind of carbs? Keihin makes a 34 pj. I don't care for pj carbs. I prefer PWK carbs but to each his own. I think the Dyna has preset curves that you can select whenever you want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBird Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 26 minutes ago, spurdy said: 20cc domes will get you more compression and probably make a torquier motor. You'll need to run a high enough octane fuel to prevent deto. What kind of carbs? Keihin makes a 34 pj. I don't care for pj carbs. I prefer PWK carbs but to each his own. I think the Dyna has preset curves that you can select whenever you want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk thank you. do you know how many turns out the air and screw needs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 thank you. do you know how many turns out the air and screw needs? First, I don't know what carb your using. Second, there are no specs for carbs. That's why they are adjustable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBird Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 11 hours ago, spurdy said: First, I don't know what carb your using. Second, there are no specs for carbs. That's why they are adjustable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Does an aftermarket regulator really make a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBird Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Or coil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 22 hours ago, BansheeBird said: Ok so i have a 1997 yamaha banshee and im looking to make a bad bitch of it. So I plan on doing 20cc domes, 34mm carb, advanced timing, dyna cdi, full fmf powercore 2 exhaust. So what I am wondering is with all this should i run 110 octane? also do i have to program the dyna before i put it on and go riding? and what are the specs for the air/ idle adjustment on the 34mm carbs for 70 degree weather? With higher compression 20cc domes and timing, definitely bank on running 110. In all honesty, you don't need a Dyna CDI, as results will be marginal. The good ol fashioned timing plate is the most reliable way to advance the timing. CDI is hundreds, and the timing plate is about $50. If you insist on trying the CDI, make sure your timing plate is at zero or the Dyna is programmed to compensate whatever you have on the plate. Also, with setting a motor up for race gas, you need to consider making sure the crank is true and get the pins welded. Also put a couple new Max Load bearings on the out side ends. As far as 34mm carbs, the PJ's are cheap and can be made to run ok, but a set of PWK's from Keihin would run better. My concern is that you are looking at carbs that may be a bit to big for the set up you are going for. With out doing port work and a stroker crank, you should be looking at 28mm or 33mm PWK's. 28's if you're running trails and need more bottom end. 33's if you are in more wide open terrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 11 hours ago, BansheeBird said: Or coil? Not really. OEM ignition components has proven superior in reliability making the .001 percent difference not worth the high cost and reliability risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 2 minutes ago, ZillaFreak said: 110 is way to much octane for 20cc and the basic +4 timing. 3 minutes ago, ZillaFreak said: 110 is way to much octane for 20cc and the basic +4 timing. Correct, it's really on tipping point. However I get the feeling he is gonna be looking to throw as much timing at as he can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 110 is way to much octane for 20cc and the basic +4 timing.I didn't have to run 110 until I had 17cc domes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 2 minutes ago, ZillaFreak said: I have a feeling in a month, he will post about rebuilding the engine. 👆Is why I said to start out with to much octane. I'd like to see someone keep one of these things in one piece for a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 I just envision the timing plate being set at + 4 and the Dyna getting set to an advanced curve. That's a fuck ton of timing for a motor to see on just pump. But if it gets set up right, it'll be fine on fresh premium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBird Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 18 minutes ago, ZillaFreak said: I have a feeling in a month, he will post about rebuilding the engine. jokes on you i already rebuilt it lol but thats only cuz the guy i bought it from didnt know how to run the damn thing. I appreciate al the help. I am still learning about the higher performance work and how to make everything run good and right with domes, pipes, carbs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeBird Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 18 minutes ago, trickedcarbine said: I just envision the timing plate being set at + 4 and the Dyna getting set to an advanced curve. That's a fuck ton of timing for a motor to see on just pump. But if it gets set up right, it'll be fine on fresh premium. the only reason im looking into new cdi is because my oem is fried. ill have the cdi set at oem power curve but what is the best set up for me to get good performance but having a reliable build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 15 minutes ago, BansheeBird said: the only reason im looking into new cdi is because my oem is fried. ill have the cdi set at oem power curve but what is the best set up for me to get good performance but having a reliable build? OEM ignition components, with an adjustable timing plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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