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28 PWK carbs worth while for my build


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Just wanted to ask if there is any advantage or disadvantages to running 28mm PWK carbs on the following build (trail bike)

Stock bore, stock stroke MX porting (HJR), FMF Fatties, no lid on air box, upgraded cooling system. Carbs are local but wanted to check here first to make sure its worth it.

Thanks again

 

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Just wanted to ask if there is any advantage or disadvantages to running 28mm PWK carbs on the following build (trail bike)
Stock bore, stock stroke MX porting (HJR), FMF Fatties, no lid on air box, upgraded cooling system. Carbs are local but wanted to check here first to make sure its worth it.
Thanks again
 
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I had a 33pwk single on a similar setup and it did fine. I think 28s would support a small twin just fine.


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I also prefer keihins over mikunis or lecterns for jetting.

And if you still have TORS I'd def pick up a new set as opposed to deleting the TORS from your stockers. You will be replacing them at some point anyone. Everyone always does. Lol! With that in mind, if you're going to go bigger later and the 28s will be too small, might consider getting something bigger now as opposed to buying twice.


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Id stick to the 28's imo  they sell like hot cakes and just use those funds to get larger later if you went bigger. esp if the price is right on those 28s....
 
  its fairly rare to come across a good clean set locally without the need to pay shipping from us.

Good point, I just hate trying to sell things. All the damn tire kickers have made it a pain in the ass.


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I'm not planning on going bigger at this point, but who knows. I've caught the banshee bug bad and my current build is still waiting for first start lol.
Will be picking up carbs, cable, and fender brackets for 400.00 canadian. Carbs are only six months old.
I don't mind having a few spare goodies around for the future.

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Sounds like you've made your mind up, I'll just throw this out here to support everyone's response. I switched from stock carbs to PWK 28's, I changed nothing else at the time, the throttle response was noticeable right away. Sure stock carbs will work fine with your set up, and my worked fine for the most part, but after me riding 2 different bikes both of them were ported by the same guy that did mine, and both were set up very similar to mine except they were running PWK 28's, I knew I was going to be finding a set. I can't say mine gained any power per say, but just the responsiveness was a night and day difference for me. 

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Sounds like you've made your mind up, I'll just throw this out here to support everyone's response. I switched from stock carbs to PWK 28's, I changed nothing else at the time, the throttle response was noticeable right away. Sure stock carbs will work fine with your set up, and my worked fine for the most part, but after me riding 2 different bikes both of them were ported by the same guy that did mine, and both were set up very similar to mine except they were running PWK 28's, I knew I was going to be finding a set. I can't say mine gained any power per say, but just the responsiveness was a night and day difference for me. 

I'd have to agree here and even a step further if you ever decide to go to a 4 mil. I run PWK 35s on a stock cyl and on a 4 mil stk cyl. Haven't had the 35s on the stk mil long and it used to have the 33 single. But the 4 mil is set up perfect and the carbs match it nicely. My exhaust flows more than yours with with the PCs so I didn't know how much that will affect it but I love the 35s on my 4 mil and would go any smaller.


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When the time comes to use the 28 PWK's, will the OEM intake boots accommodate the 28 without causing an issue. Kind of a stupid question is the choke tube then eliminated that's on the OEM carbs when using the 28pwks and does this effect starting if this makes sense. Forgot to mention also running chariot head 21cc domes and chariot reed cage.

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I have a friends bike in my shop right now, he's running 28's with stock intake, I believe his carb bowl touches the actuator. I went with a single piece thicker intake to move the carbs up but if your sticking with an airbox this would be a pain in the ass to get the carbs out.

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I have a friends bike in my shop right now, he's running 28's with stock intake, I believe his carb bowl touches the actuator. I went with a single piece thicker intake to move the carbs up but if your sticking with an airbox this would be a pain in the ass to get the carbs out.

Depends on intake angle. I have 41s with billet bowls with UPP intakes and they are close but clear the actuator.


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23 minutes ago, spurdy said:


Depends on intake angle. I have 41s with billet bowls with UPP intakes and they are close but clear the actuator.


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I didn't know that, I assumed with most any carbs other than stock you had to have either reed spacers or the billet single piece intakes. Good info to know. His is stock boots with VF2 reeds. The left carb bowl drain hits the actuator. I assume this is because of the stock intakes then. 

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