BurntLegs Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 I'm going to start this off with...I'm sorry, I'm sure this is a repost from somewhere. If anyone wants to send me a link to a copy of this post feel free, I WILL go and read thru it. I've been doing a decent amount of research over the past week but I want some input. Enjoy the damned book. Long story short...I bought a Shee that I was told was stock bore. Its not....its .089 (66.25mm) over and low on compression (120 on left, 110 on right). I'll throw the full list o' mods on the bottom but its bored with stock stroke, adaracing head/20cc domes. Appears to be ported (I tried to look around...didn't here of anyone getting that bad of compression from porting). Oh yea...clutch slips on pavement once it's warmed up as well(just a little icing on the cupcake). Skip the next 2 paragraphs to get straight to it. I did cold and warm compression tests, full throttle, killswitched...multiple times. My compression tester IS a cheapo, however, I checked my compression on my lil 308ex with a 14.5:1 piston in it, it read 205, which is what I was expecting (Not hoping...ha). I am working on borrowing a more expensive one and have been collecting parts for the leakdown test on my time off work, but I don't think there's much denying it here, I'm losing my rings and out of cylinder. Pulled the head (prior to buying a comp tester), no cross hatching left on walls but no visible/feelable scratches. Wish I would have knew the compression before hand, I would have measured the port and ring gap. When I had the heads off, I just wanted to measure the bore. It pulls hard (to me) so I made the mistake of assuming it had good compression. So...here's my question. What would YOU do? I will try to explain what I want from the bike. I dont live near sand or have any urge to drag competitively. That said, I have my 308 for trails but will do some trail riding on BIGGER/MAIN trails, it's mostly going to be a field ripper. I understand its a 2 stroke, but I want it to be decently reliable and get some time inbetween top ends here. It is worth it for me to pay a little extra up front to get a decently reliable bike that will melt my face(I know, I'm stating polar opposites here). My options, as I understand, lowest to highest cost: 1) Bore to 66.50, throw in Wiseco pistons. Hope it doesn't crack for awhile. Possibly have a catastrophic failure. Yeeeehaaaww $350ish 2) Ebay kit by BP Racing: NICHE 64mm cylinders "stage 2 race port" + VITOS pistons. Dont know anything about either parts. Input is welcome about this setup(not expecting much positivity on this one). Search for it, it is easy to find. Not sure if links to external sites are welcomed or not. $500ish 3) Serval cylinders. This one...hmm. The 68 mils, stock stroke setup. Throw Wiseco pistons in. Not sure if my ADARacing domes will work, I can get them cut. I will eventually want to spend the $$ on 4 mil setup, not sure if that is doable if I buy this now. Possibly huge waste of money if I'm NOT doing a crank/bigger pistons. But I THINK I like the idea of plated. $940 cyl + $260 pistons + $50ish in gaskets. I would guestimate $1250-1400 for this one. Almost my preferred but mostly unsure(?) about option, might be doing a little future proofing + it will make my taint tingle. 4) Balls to the wall: 4 mil crank, serval cyls. Havn't done much research here, I don't really want to spend that much/jump into a 1-3 month project right out of the gates. Maybe 1/2 yrs out. If you made it this far, sincere thanks for putting in the attention. My apologies as well, I know I will somehow piss someone off, I'm not as knowledgeable as 90% of the people here but am working on learning from my mistakes and will listen to advice. 66.25 bore,unknown porting, ada racing heads w/ 20cc domes, stock stroke, unknown big radiator, vforce 3 reeds, T5'soomey 2-1 intake, 30/360 jets on stock carbs, +2 swingy. Unsure about clutch, if the crank is welded, impeller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 first of all welcome to BHQ there is a few things to work out first, type of riding what you want out of the quad budget what fuel you want to run do you mind waiting for porting etc?? just a few things to figure out yourself then we can give you ideas and what's best to spend your money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Thank you for the welcome and reply!... 1) No sand/drag strips. Field ripping/light trails. 2) I know they're not handling quads, I want something that's just fun to rip thru fields/dirt on. 60-70 hp would be real nice, more is always welcome. Engine first:suspension later. 3) $1500 or under, under $1000 ideally. 4) 110 leaded octane 5) No I don't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 no worries mate, you said unknown porting? is it ported but you don't know what kind or?? you can spend a shit load of money trying to save money doing things twice etc. you could just send your cylinders off to get ported but you will have to split the cases to weld the crank anyway, so i would say get your cylinders ported for 4mm like an aggressive trails port? (if not already ported) send your domes with jugs to be cut for stroker awsell and buy a 'hot rods" 4mm crank and maxload bearings. replace all seals i spend months and months researching and putting lists together until i made up my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Yes its ported, when I pulled the heads, I saw grinding on the ports but didn't dig deeper. I bought it as "bolt ons, stock bore." Its bored/ported haha I'm happy with the power now, just losing compression and already running 66.25mm pistons on think stock walls... That sounds like a good build to me, allot of people seem to do it. Any ideas on where to buy cylinders? Right now I'm mostly worried about throwing the money towards the top end so it's solid and doing a crank next summer/the winter, I know I'll have to keep that in mind when porting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Dunno where the edit button went, swore I just had that option.... Finally found some info/pics claiming niche cylinders are aids. So as far as I understand...keep my eyes peeled for OEM with bore left+get em ported or buy some nice aftermarket ones are my options here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 do you know if your crank is welded for porting?? if not you're riding a ticking time bomb.. niche are pretty aids but can be made good in the right hands.. Do not get athena. aftermarket would be driveline or CP cylinders like serval could look at getting ur stocks re-sleeved and ported for 4mm? don't know how much that will cost tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 http://drivelineperformance.com/yamaha/banshee/engine/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 I am unsure if its welded. Judging by the cyls/slipping clutch...its already a time bomb thats ticking really fast ha. Going off the fact a decent porting is $300+, I would assume at the very least $300 from my local machinist for a resleeve, not really worth it in my opinion. Ill check out Driveline thanks for the ref. The Assassin LP's + HotRod/Driveline +4 crank seem like a somewhat cost effective option. Now just to figure out if Domes will fit my adaracing head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Assassin LP 421 is what im running, you will not be disappointed.. domes should fit, just make sure you go with the 9degree big bore ones... email bill or lane from driveline. great guys and will get you flying in no time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) Man if your wanting to stay under that 1000 budget, just go ahead and buy the 392 cylinders from driveline. You will have a nice reliable motor that will make some nice power. 800 bucks for cylinders, pistons, everything, u can use ur head, get new domes cut for 55 bucks, and use ur t5s with stockers with some pods. will be a fun bike. Then you can sell ur current cylinders and have a few hundred extra bucks, that's what I would do at least. driveline12@aol.com or 2487933535 Edited June 29, 2017 by Ayesully810 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 that is true, but like he said he doesn't know if the crank is welded, so will have to split the cases anyway.. why not save some more paychecks and do the 4mm crank and new seals/better bearings. would suck to seal a new motor up to only throw a rod on first ride.. If it were me i would toss that 2-1 carb and go back to dual carbs if you go bigbore/stroker. which ever way you go it's going to cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurntLegs Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) Pretty set on the driveline setup after doing some more research. Think I'm going to get one more paycheck under my belt and pull the trigger on the 4mil crank and 68mm cylinder setup! I can't find any good info on Drivelines cranks, I'm going to assume they're good and just get it all from them rather then a HR crank. I like the idea of 392, but I am afraid of throwing a rod....been there, done that on a car lol It sucks I bought this bike 2 weeks ago and already have to throw $1500 and a few weeks of work into it. But hey, I'll have my (almost) dream bike and you can't buy any factory wheeler with comparable power for less then $4500!! Its just the 2 to 1 intake, I have both carbs. If anything I'll trade the Uni filter on it in for a K&N w/ prefilty. Probably going to see how it runs/do a plug chop on the 30/360 jets that are in it now and go from there once I get to that stage. Once again, thanks for the friendliness and advice. I know this info is already out there for the most part. It's cool to see a decent community. Just went for a little yard rip, god damn I love this bike. Edited June 29, 2017 by BurntLegs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Good stuff man. Me and stribz both rock the 421 lp setup. Solid setup. Def get pods for your stockers. Think stribz is at a 350 main and 27.5 pilot with his stock carbs at 700 elevation. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STRIBZ Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 yeah 350main 27.5p 0-700.. just to give you an idea on how well the 421 goes with no porting, lined up against 450's, banshee's and a shitty polaris 500, was about 12 of us and all ate shit from me by about 4 car lengths in about 1/4mile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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