Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 3 minutes ago, ginger said: since the guy before had you running crappy oil, and the wrong mixture, what spark plugs are you running? and did you gap the plug? I'm running NGK br8es I asked the fella at the shop how should I gap these and he said they're good the way they come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 you have the right plug, but he is full of shit on the gaping. most local shops dont know shit about banshee's. The gap is way too large from the factory, and needs to be brought to around .020 so you have the right heat in the spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 1 minute ago, ginger said: you have the right plug, but he is full of shit on the gaping. most local shops dont know shit about banshee's. The gap is way too large from the factory, and needs to be brought to around .020 so you have the right heat in the spark. Okay, good to know. 020 inches? How do you guys measure that? You got any tricks? Like a penny or something handy like that?or would I need a caliper to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 feeler gauges. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Feeler gauges or a gap tool, they are dirt cheap at any autoparts store. In a pinch you could use a matchbook cover but anymore those are pretty damn rare 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) Thanks guys, gonna pick up some feeler gauges or a gap tool when i pick up the compression tester. Just saw a video on how to do it, by southernbanshee he pretty much makes videos for everything. & he said to make sure the tester has the little valve or it won't work because it will let air back out and not let it build with a couple kicks. So I'll be looking out for that, hopefully I can find everything at the nearest auto parts. Will post results of compression test in about an hour or so Edited June 27, 2017 by Rawnold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 yes needs the check valve and correct adaptor. I take both plugs out, screw the gauge into 1 of the cylinders, hold the throttle wide open and kick the ever living hell out of it until guage stops climbing. remove switch sides and repeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 53 minutes ago, rubberneck said: yes needs the check valve and correct adaptor. I take both plugs out, screw the gauge into 1 of the cylinders, hold the throttle wide open and kick the ever living hell out of it until guage stops climbing. remove switch sides and repeat On my way home now. Should I leave one side plugged while I test the other or it doesn't matter? Also should I do it with the key and ignition on, fuel on or off? Or is all of that irrelevant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 3 minutes ago, Rawnold said: On my way home now. Should I leave one side plugged while I test the other or it doesn't matter? Also should I do it with the key and ignition on, fuel on or off? Or is all of that irrelevant? ignition key wont matter, keep both plugs out of the motor, that way it kicks over easier. same with the fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 2 minutes ago, ginger said: ignition key wont matter, keep both plugs out of the motor, that way it kicks over easier. same with the fuel. Gotcha, as for the fuel? Don't really get what you mean? On or off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 doesnt matter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnold Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Alright so I just did the test, left side wouldn't go past the 30s, left side shot up to 180 and wouldn't go past that. does that mean my left side is blown? I tested it twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Alright so I just did the test, left side wouldn't go past the 30s, left side shot up to 180 and wouldn't go past that. does that mean my left side is blown? I tested it twice 30 isn't good. But 180 is really high for stock exhaust porting and stock head volume. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 I don't have anything stick to compare it to but I think stock static compression should be around 130 psi Fresh. Anything less than 80 or 90 psi is getting pretty worn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Just now, spurdy said: I don't have anything stick to compare it to but I think stock static compression should be around 130 psi Fresh. Anything less than 80 or 90 psi is getting pretty worn. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk pretty much. most guys are between 115-130 without any mods depending on a few other factors. im going to say the one piston is toast. only way to confirm it is by pulling the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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