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What is this leak?


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2 minutes ago, spurdy said:

I agree with rubberneck on the bottom end stuff. Once you have it apart that far, no reason not to go all the way. Then, when your done, you know what you've got.

As far as cylinders, I wouldn't be afraid of using those if you liked the way they perform. I have a dune motor by HJR and it runs like a top for the way it is built. Once it got out to 65.5mm and needed another overbore (had 0.012" cyl wall to piton clearance) I sent them to millennium to have the nikasilled. The same plating they use in many other cylinder applications. They nikasilled plated it back to 65.5mm and I put it back together. Wasn't inexpensive, but neither was putting that motor together and getting it set up just the way I like it.

And go buy a clymers manual. You're gonna need it.


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good info, i didnt realize his cylinders were already ported, i thought he said he was going to have them ported.  

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3 minutes ago, spurdy said:

I agree with rubberneck on the bottom end stuff. Once you have it apart that far, no reason not to go all the way. Then, when your done, you know what you've got.

As far as cylinders, I wouldn't be afraid of using those if you liked the way they perform. I have a dune motor by HJR and it runs like a top for the way it is built. Once it got out to 65.5mm and needed another overbore (had 0.012" cyl wall to piton clearance) I sent them to millennium to have the nikasilled. The same plating they use in many other cylinder applications. They nikasilled plated it back to 65.5mm and I put it back together. Wasn't inexpensive, but neither was putting that motor together and getting it set up just the way I like it.

And go buy a clymers manual. You're gonna need it.


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I see what you guys are saying and it makes complete sense. Is pulling apart cases & bottom end something I am gonna need someone with more experience for? I will get my hands on this manual asap.

 

Am I gonna have to end up pulling the motor off my frame? Cause if I am might as well just get to work on the frame while those cylinders are being worked on.

 

also, what do you guys reccomend? I have someone saying no to over bore, someone else saying doesn't matter? What's the real difference?

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good info, i didnt realize his cylinders were already ported, i thought he said he was going to have them ported.  

He did say that, but he posted pics and it looks like there has been some work done to them already.

Hard to tell what, we don't even know if it is still stoke stroke for sure. Looks like it from what I can tell by the domes, but not 100%.


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3 minutes ago, Rawnold said:

That sounds like a good plan, honestly I didn't plan on doing it right away there's a lot I want to do to the quad, powder coat the frame & swing arm, re weld stripped footpegs and other parts on the frame.. but that's all $$$$ and really I'm 21 going to school, I'm not swimming in cash you feel me.. if it's a must I will get to it, but I'd rather avoid anything that's unnecessary

I understand where you are coming from, i do. Unfortunately there is nothing cheap about these things when you really get down to it.  If you take a shortcut you will just end up spending money twice.  We arent telling you these things to waste your money and time, its because we have all been there and blowed that up.  Ive nuked a few of these things over the years.  Its better to prevent it than to pick up the pieces

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We can't answer your overbore question because we don't know if it needs it. But you can only overbore so far so don't do it to gain displacement. The wall thickness is the life of your cylinder.

If it needs to be done it needs to be done. Can't say no to that.


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1 minute ago, spurdy said:


He did say that, but he posted pics and it looks like there has been some work done to them already.

Hard to tell what, we don't even know if it is still stoke stroke for sure. Looks like it from what I can tell by the domes, but not 100%.


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gotcha i only saw the pics of the top of the pistons and the head.

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1 minute ago, rubberneck said:

I understand where you are coming from, i do. Unfortunately there is nothing cheap about these things when you really get down to it.  If you take a shortcut you will just end up spending money twice.  We arent telling you these things to waste your money and time, its because we have all been there and blowed that up.  Ive nuked a few of these things over the years.  Its better to prevent it than to pick up the pieces

Agreed, damage is always more costly than prevention. & to spurdy the way to check stroke is on the crank right? Once I start tearing into it I will post some pics for you guys. I will post pics of every step alongside the way

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Agreed, damage is always more costly than prevention. & to spurdy the way to check stroke is on the crank right? Once I start tearing into it I will post some pics for you guys. I will post pics of every step alongside the way

Measure TDC of the piston to BDC of the piston. Stock stroke is 54mm.


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Just now, Rawnold said:

Agreed, damage is always more costly than prevention. & to spurdy the way to check stroke is on the crank right? Once I start tearing into it I will post some pics for you guys. I will post pics of every step alongside the way

the pistons you have are stock pin height for a stock length rod, so assuming there is no spacerplate under the cylinders, the pistons should not be protruding out of the cylinders when at TDC.  If they stick out 2 mm at the edge then its a stroker, if not its stock

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1 minute ago, spurdy said:

We can't answer your overbore question because we don't know if it needs it. But you can only overbore so far so don't do it to gain displacement. The wall thickness is the life of your cylinder.

If it needs to be done it needs to be done. Can't say no to that.


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Gotcha, in that case should I test the bore first before sending them out that way I know if it even needs or should I just let the builder handle that and let him tell me if it needs it and fit me with some pistons? Hopefully it isn't a dickhead builder that just wants to make some extra bucks so ports them regardless

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Gotcha, in that case should I test the bore first before sending them out that way I know if it even needs or should I just let the builder handle that and let him tell me if it needs it and fit me with some pistons? Hopefully it isn't a dickhead builder that just wants to make some extra bucks so ports them regardless

Of it were me, is check them, that way I could just tell the builder what I wanted.

Talk to some of the site sponsors. Go with someone you fell comfortable with. Bill at driveline is great, cam at redline is awesome, there are many good guys on here that won't screw you over. In fact, most of them wouldn't be here if they didn't treat people right.

But a personal connection is always a plus.


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the pistons you have are stock pin height for a stock length rod, so assuming there is no spacerplate under the cylinders, the pistons should not be protruding out of the cylinders when at TDC.  If they stick out 2 mm at the edge then its a stroker, if not its stock

How do you know the pin height? I didn't see a pic of the piston outside of the cyl.


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3 minutes ago, spurdy said:


How do you know the pin height? I didn't see a pic of the piston outside of the cyl.


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It was a 513 series piston wasnt it?  I thought the 513s have stock pin height for stock length rod and the 795s were raised.  If not disregard what i said

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