RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 25 minutes ago, trickedcarbine said: Crank case is possibly not sealed between cases or clutch side seal. Pressurizing the trans case. will perform a other leak down test this week end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 I replace the radiator and coolant... it began to spit after.... is it possible that something goes wrong with the RAD I install, coolant? Just check the level this morning, as routine, and everything is level normal... good color e.t.cFirst, the Labyrinth seal is not a true seal so it doesn't divide the crank case so you cannot test each side individually. Second, yes, you can plug the front vent seal. Most after market clutch covers have that blocked off anyway. Third, I would definitely investigate what you have described as an air leak of 1 psi in 2 minutes. That may or may not be the issue with oil coming out of your vent but it is a problem. Fourth, if you were pressurizing the transmission from the cooling system you would have coolant in your oil. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbanshee8 Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Had a similar issue with mine, and it ended up being a failure of the seal between the case halves at the back of the crankcase/front of transmission. I wouldn't ride it, or start it anymore, until you find the leak, and get it fixed. I got lucky, and didn't tear up stuff, but that was very unlikely occurrence. Your chances of tearing up a bunch of shit, and costing you big money are really high, if you keep on riding it/starting it without finding out what's wrong, and getting it fixed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 OK Guys, Thanks for all the good answer and opinion.... I'll be sure my homemade leak down tester are ok, without any leak and redo a leak down test this week end. I'll probably take picture or video and come back with you ASAP when it's done... I'll prepare a bottle of wash soap to find any leak and spray it into both vent tube when the system is charged in PSI... so if the key, seal or case internal leak... I'll see directly... If it's leaking from the key... no big deal here easy to fix, just remove the primary gear and seal the key back with yamabond? If it's a case leak, in this case I having no choice to split it? any tricks? Other question... any of you was able to fix/change de crank seal without splitting the case? Any tricks? I'm planned to redo the entire bike this winter... but I will like to finish the summer season and rip it! thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 1 hour ago, JessePerron said: if your key is leaking... easy quick fix. as said remove gear 1211 key and re assemble. If your cases or crank seal is leaking.... your going to need to split the motor. If you cases are leaking I would highly recommend changing crank seals while your at it. if your crank seal is leaking... well then that leaves you with no choice. There is no tips or tricks to this to make it go faster.... do it right and follow the clymers and you will be fine. cutting corners or trying to speed up the process will just cause issues. you should be able to strip and rebuild this motor over a weekend no problem with the clymers. With a bit of experience you can strip and rebuild a motor in a few hours if you got all the parts on hand. thxs for answer... that's what I think... I having a lot of experience for buiding engine and I'm well equipped... so couple hours in my case... did the 450r to a friend in 1 days last month. I just need to deal with family time and doing it, kind of pissed because a paid 3400$ for this, like to "run this summer head free"... but shit happened like usual in 2 stroke world when you buy a bike... Keep you posted guys thanks _Steve_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 One thing is that if you split the cases, you can do so without removing the cylinders or messing with the top end. I've done it many times from the bottom. It does make cleaning the old sealant from the top half of the case more difficult but worth it imo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Ok Guys... UPDATE!!!! Leak down test done! And now I'm sure crank seal/key are sealed! Pump it to 7.5PSI let sit for approx. 7min. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) After 7min... it drop around 0.1PSI so better to said nothing! So NO LEAK AT ALL. Edited June 24, 2017 by RoccothebeastQC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 So...... anyone have an other idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I NEED HELP... BRAINSTORMING.... For now she looks like this and can't wait for a rip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 I NEED HELP... BRAINSTORMING.... For now she looks like this and can't wait for a rip! Plug the vent below the water pump and go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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