RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Hi Guys, Since 2 or 3 month I wrote a topic about it, many diagnostic was made without success.... problem still there. First my bike: Banshee 2007 (engine mod list) 380cc big bore Vforce 3 Toomey T5 rebuilted carb with Toomey needle (4th clip). (main 320-pilot 27.5) Oversized Alu. Radiator Moose racing case saver Ok first, when I bought the shee 3-4 month ago, everything was ok. After did my little mod and maintenance, gear box oil begin to spit from the vent after 2 or 3 WOT. Since this time it still spit but never the same amount or nothing. Last ride a 35 degrees, full open throttle gave the shit out of it, I lost maybe 1L.... Diagnostic already made (IM SURE ALL THIS ARE OK) oil level ok! (whatever the amount of oil into it, it will spit till it's empty) vent are not clogged or pinched and right routed crank seal clutch side ok, leak down test performed and pipe don't smoke more than the other one. KEEP IN MINE THAT THE BIKE RUN REALLY GREAT! My question: do you think the case saver mod can make and be pressurized by the little white plastic block off plate behind the case saver, if it not sealed properly? do you think I'm using a wrong oil type (motul transoil easter) and it boil and clog the vent.... then oil is pushed completely out by the water pump case vent? is it possible that my clutch slip a little bit in 5 or 6th gear and make the oil boil and hot enough to create problem? do you having other idea? I'm kind of frustrated because I checked everything so many time and cannot ride my shee without spit oil everywhere on my bike and fill it after every ride. I reroute the vent tube at the back of the swing arm for prevent oil to go on my tune pipe or everywhere on my shee but still go everywhere on the back of the bike. goes on my tail pipe and contaminated my rear brake. I called every banshee specialist I knows and they don't fkn know wtf happen with my shee..... PLEASE HELP ME!!!!! Let me know thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 is the oil still clean or does it have any milky look to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Just now, ginger said: is the oil still clean or does it have any milky look to it? clean! my water pump seal is not leaking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 mostly of the time it spit from the water pump case vent not the back one! normally that mean the back one is clogged or pinched... but mine is ok! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Power_Man Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 what " little mod and maintenance " did you do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 i have my clutch side vent blocked off with no issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 15 minutes ago, Power_Man said: what " little mod and maintenance " did you do? moose case saver trans oil flush carb maintenance oversized radiator new prestone new denso coil cap and plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 4 minutes ago, JessePerron said: up to where is your clutch side vent routed? it should be ran up to the top of your handlebars and MOST people tend to block that vent as the rear vent is usually sufficient. If your cases are pressurizing that is an issue.... How long did you hold the leak down test for? did you perform the leak down with the cases empty (no oil) and with the clutch cover off. when the problem began, it was routed like factory with the platic T link and routed like factory to the handle bar... that's why I rerouted them because I took a oil shower everytime I took the bike for a run... sometime after hard riding, just when it spit, if I unscrew the oil cap I hear pressure come out! Do you have a complete exact procedure for the leakdown test. because I performed it like the shop manual said. hold it 2 min per side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 19 minutes ago, JessePerron said: hold it 2 min per side? for a leak down test? not quite following you there. yess! 2 min per side, and it drop less than 1 psi in 2 minutes . per side means I switch my pump and gage side to side and redo the test because I'm kind of craaaazzyyyyy well if there's pressure coming out that means you typically have an air leak as there's nothing else in the trans area that can or should create pressure! bike don't loose oil when I bouht it and maybe 1 or 2 ride after.... made my little mod and it began to spit... What is odd though is that the pressure isnt being released out the back vent which makes me think your pressure is coming from the PTO side crank seal / keyway area. My guess is you def have an air leak and odds are its the key way that didnt get any sealer added to it the leak from the key can happen no where like this.... the bike was not doing this when I bought it or ran it at the beginning Here's a thread on how to build one and perform a proper leak down... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/110585-leakdown-tester/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 ^^^^^this. I won't let a motor pass that leaks anything in 7-10 mins. As was said, any kind of an air leak won't do anything but get worse. You can check each side independently due to the labyrinth seal in the middle of the crankshaft. Strange the your case is actually holding pressure. The vent must be plugged. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 My guess is a bad crank seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 just made a other test for testing my vent! plug a bike pump to the WATER PUMP CASE VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI air come out freely by the other vent without any oil or bubble. plug a bike pump to the REAR VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI and Air isn't coming out freely like the other one and oil spit..... Can I just delete and plug the WATER PUMP VENT TUBE, and just go rip it with only the rear vent and see what happened? It let me think that vent goes wrong with each other. Like one goes against the other one and push the oil out when it's hot and expended.... Seriously I'm pretty sure my crank seal is ok, but for sure I will perform a other leak down test this week end for be sure.... I'm asking again, DO YOU THINK THAT THE CASE CAN BE PRESURISED BY THE BLOCK OFF PLATE BEHIND THE CASE SAVER, I REPLACE AN ORING THERE AND IT'S TOTALLY LINKED WITH THE INTERNAL TRANS CASING, IF IT LEAKS, CAN HE SUCK UP AIR AND PUSH OIL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Crank case is possibly not sealed between cases or clutch side seal. Pressurizing the trans case. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 5 minutes ago, RoccothebeastQC said: just made a other test for testing my vent! plug a bike pump to the WATER PUMP CASE VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI air come out freely by the other vent without any oil or bubble. plug a bike pump to the REAR VENT TUBE, shoot maybe 2-3 PSI and Air isn't coming out freely like the other one and oil spit..... Can I just delete and plug the WATER PUMP VENT TUBE, and just go rip it with only the rear vent and see what happened? It let me think that vent goes wrong with each other. Like one goes against the other one and push the oil out when it's hot and expended.... Seriously I'm pretty sure my crank seal is ok, but for sure I will perform a other leak down test this week end for be sure.... I'm asking again, DO YOU THINK THAT THE CASE CAN BE PRESURISED BY THE BLOCK OFF PLATE BEHIND THE CASE SAVER, I REPLACE AN ORING THERE AND IT'S TOTALLY LINKED WITH THE INTERNAL TRANS CASING, IF IT LEAKS, CAN HE SUCK UP AIR AND PUSH OIL? as to the last part, it wouldnt make it build pressure, it would more then likely just let it leak. it needs to have something building the pressure. for example the crankcase, or coolant building pressure due to heat. It takes a lot of pressure to overcome what the vent can let out, making me think it is a crankcase leak as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccothebeastQC Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 14 minutes ago, ginger said: as to the last part, it wouldnt make it build pressure, it would more then likely just let it leak. it needs to have something building the pressure. for example the crankcase, or coolant building pressure due to heat. It takes a lot of pressure to overcome what the vent can let out, making me think it is a crankcase leak as well. I replace the radiator and coolant... it began to spit after.... is it possible that something goes wrong with the RAD I install, coolant? Just check the level this morning, as routine, and everything is level normal... good color e.t.c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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