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Proper use of dielectric grease!


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I have noticed a few posts regarding the use, or misuse of dielectric grease.  The term "dielectric" refers to to opposite of "electrically conductive", in which it is actually an insulator!!  A common specification used in the electronics industry called "dielectric breakdown" refers to how much voltage per mil thickness a material can insulate before voltage will "leak" through.  The common dielectric greases found at auto parts stores are usually a silicone grease.  It is called dielectric grease because it can be used AROUND electrical contacts without concerns of voltage carrying through the grease and finding a short.  Consider it like a liquid insulator!

There are some greases that are designed specifically for multipin connectors and switches with a LOW dielectric breakdown.  These greases are formulated to purposely conduct at very low mil thickness (close proximity of a socket/pin connection), but otherwise have high enough dielectric so as not to create shorts through the entire connector.  Grease is used to lock out moisture.  

 

The reason I bring this up is I notice several people advocating the use of dielectric grease for "all connections", without consideration of what grease is used.  In short, the common variety of silicone grease actually has a HIGH dielectric breakdown as it is intended for spark plug boots so if you put that on a metallic connector, you will actually create RESISTANCE, which is opposite of what you want!  This can cause all sorts of electrical problems.  

 

Now, I realize some tech sheets for spark plug wires may even promote the use of this grease, but their goal and intention is to rely on a high pressure contact to squeeze the grease away from the actual point of contact.  And also realize spark plug wires operate at many thousands of volts.  Apply that same method to a connector with only 10-15V, and you have effectively installed a resistor in the connector.  

 

There are greases formulated as "electrically conductive", and are commonly used in electronics.  They are not as common in automotive applications because any accidental overage can create an easy short.  

 

The proper use of common silicone dielectric grease would be to apply the grease ONLY on the connector boots to create a high quality water seal, but it should not be applied to the actual metallic contacts.  

 

 

Brandon

Mull Engineering

 

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Interesting. I am one of those fellas using it on just about every electrical connection. I just use the stuff that is supposed to go on spark plugs. 

 

Any my info on the chemical make up of the grease the OEM auto manufacturers are using? Seeing a lot of a new green substance now. 

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I would probably direct folks to Grainger, McMaster, or better yet Digikey and such for proper electrical greases and cleaners 

 

HOWEVER, what do I recommend? NOTHING but an aerosol contact cleaner with an oxidation reducer to clean up contacts and simply ensure your connectors are are to snuff.  Why no grease?  Because Banshees are used in dirt and sand, and the grease will do nothing but collect that crap in the small connectors, then you can never get it out.  What I have seen is guys goop this stuff in a connector, the grease becomes contaminated with sand, then they open the connector and "reseat it", in which the sand drives a wedge between the contacts.  

 

Lets just say it creates more problems than it solves for many connectors.  You might notice several OEMs using grease in multipins but that connector is typically shielded in several other ways including an Oring.  The grease mostly functions to eliminate air space.  

 

The grease that you find at auto parts stores is silicone typically and was designed to be used on the BOOTS of the plug wires to create a seal between the plug and boot and prevent them from sticking to each other.  That should be applied with a small brush or Qtip only.  

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The dielectric grease is good to use inside the spark plug boots and on the ceramic tower on sparkplug. Do not apply it to the conductor. A toothpick does wonders or a small screwdriver for spreading it around inside the boot. I have worked on LT1 trans ams and it has saved me grief using this stuff correctly. I also believe a light coat of antiseize on threads is beneficial but that's just me. For doing up harnesses a butt splice that is filled with no ox ... it's a compound we use on electrical splices and connections where it prevents corrosion. Crimp the buttsplice slide shrink tube over everything and when it shrinks a little no ox will ooze out and that my friends is better than a soldered connection imo. Another tid bit of info dielectric grease used around your car door seals will make them last longer, plus it won't freeze shut . 

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i figured this would be a good idea to help with water.  

I was going to put it in my connections this week, due to the fact that when i wash my quad it doesnt run right until it dries back out. 

 

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