Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 When I was taking it apart ^^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 I dabbed some sealant on the key way and around the bearing in the tranny like I've seen some of the videos I watched do. I really doubt it's going to be a problem w any of that - but I've been wrong before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 I dabbed some sealant on the key way and around the bearing in the tranny like I've seen some of the videos I watched do. I really doubt it's going to be a problem w any of that - but I've been wrong before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'd say your covered there then. And those seem to be factory gears anyway. Pretty sure the Hinson gear sets are all straight cut. It looks like you're pointed in the right direction. Too much timing, too little octane, convergent squish angle - all contributing factors. Probably not even an air leak, but test anyway. Does the underside of the piston show any heat? What do the plugs look like? So far there is really no sign of deto there. The water probably just put the flame out. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Well that's the deal. The left plug (good cyl) looked good. Dry light light black color. The right plug was black but the grounding electrode was burnt about half way back towards the side. Idk if that was from the water hitting it or what Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Well that's the deal. The left plug (good cyl) looked good. Dry light light black color. The right plug was black but the grounding electrode was burnt about half way back towards the side. Idk if that was from the water hitting it or what Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Water caused deto or deto caused the water. I'm sure the head was torqued, right? Any loose or stripped studs? (Still leaning toward bad dome angle though) And I think you mentioned those orings not being able to seal that much pressure. A very smart guy years ago told me that the face of the dome clamped down is what seals in compression, and the oring is just to keep water out. That makes better sense to me than a little piece of viton holding up to the heat and pressure of combustion. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 (edited) Water caused deto or deto caused the water. I'm sure the head was torqued, right? Any loose or stripped studs? (Still leaning toward bad dome angle though) And I think you mentioned those orings not being able to seal that much pressure. A very smart guy years ago told me that the face of the dome clamped down is what seals in compression, and the oring is just to keep water out. That makes better sense to me than a little piece of viton holding up to the heat and pressure of combustion. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Yeah I was leaning towards the top of that cylinder being partially warped or the head. The only step I didn't take was lapping the head and cylinder before I put it together. Everything was torqued exactly like the manual said. Yeah I figured it was a metal-metal seal and the oring was just for insurance and to keep water out but man it's hard to imagine it ever would seal right with the jugs being separately bolted down and the head being one piece covering both jugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited April 12, 2017 by Clueless87JFrame 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 12, 2017 Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 Yeah I was leaning towards the top of that cylinder being partially warped or the head. The only step I didn't take was lapping the head and cylinder before I put it together. Everything was torqued exactly like the manual said. Yeah I figured it was a metal-metal seal and the oring was just for insurance and to keep water out but man it's hard to imagine it ever would seal right with the jugs being separately bolted down and the head being one piece covering both jugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I figure you torqued it in order and to spec since you seem to know more about this than most new Banshee guys. Good luck and keep us posted. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 I figure you torqued it in order and to spec since you seem to know more about this than most new Banshee guys. Good luck and keep us posted. Sent from my STV100-1 using Tapatalk Thanks man and will do. Yeah I woulda never bought this thing if I didn't think I could have handled the rebuild somewhat easily. I always spend the extra time or money on a motor to replace everything that way it's ready to roll but I may have made a mistake with not lapping the cylinders or head from the start Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2017 What's the best place to grab a set of carbs ? I messaged that NASS or whatever head place and haven't gotten a response so I may try another Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 I've seen plenty of cylinders that the decks were compromised in the oring groove area from the old factory head gaskets. A wise man once told me the stock head gaskets under certain conditions will walk around causing that issue. I've listed my concerns and what information you need to get me. Essentially you built a blow torch 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Do yourself a favor call fast racing, one stop shop and done . He's got anything and everything you need plus knowledge of parts he sells 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clueless87JFrame Posted April 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 Do yourself a favor call fast racing, one stop shop and done . He's got anything and everything you need plus knowledge of parts he sells How do I reach this fella ? I will get the measurements for you tomorrow afternoon and see what I need from there. May try and find a head, carbs, and the correct domes after that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 785-364-5325 talk to Jeff or Cody, best bet is to call exactly at 10 central time, otherwise there grinding away and you will leave message Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeSandiefer Posted April 13, 2017 Report Share Posted April 13, 2017 So this head ? Which domes ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Love my Chariot head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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