Canadianshee Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Been trying to keep a good pace going with this rebuild as of lately. Been finding great info on here for motor breakdown and rebuild and clymers is a life saver. Any tips on how to stream line search function within BHQ for a specific topic? This past weekend I dug into and went over the motor internals and now have some time before replacement parts show up and reassemble. Found all shift forks were bent and scorched (what causes this) and a 10 year old clutch that thinks it from the 70's getting its groove on. So here are my stupid questions followed after current build list 2007 Banshee with OEM Cylinders at 64.5 bore with MX hardcore porting, new stock length true and welded crank Chariot head with 19cc domes, Chariot reed cage and clutch pancake thingy and water pump cover ( Chariot intake with internal crossover for future build), Mull Engeering water pump gear, impeller, shift star, and shift bearing mod and new shifter shaft with mod. All bearings, seals in entire motor replaced, upgraded bearings clips bushing ect. Stock carbs with tors delete and new intake boots with cross over tube, stock air box no lid with pro design filter and filter mount, FMF Fatty pipes and powercore2 silencers and high capacity rad. Will perform on bench leak down test when reassembled and compression once installed in frame. Ride area is roughly 195M or 639 feet above sea level with temps between -20 to +30 degree C/ -4 f to 86 f, depending on season, humidity always changing ( screw you Ontario climate) 1. 200 watt stator safe to run with new OEM CDI? I assume yes but wanted to see if anyone had heard of any issues of CDI fail rate or issues with high output stator. Have gone through wire harness and bonded rad to motor mount and chassis grounds have been cleaned and hema-sealed, for future Trail Tech install after break in. 2. From reading a jetting start point I'm guessing would be 330 mains, 27.5 pilot, OEM needle middle clip and air screw one turn out from bottom. Any thoughts at this start point. 3. I won't know compression until motor is reassembled so not sure if I will need to mix race gas or not at my riding alt, but still bit confused about this have read to much. Any thoughts? I'm sure there will be more to come once motor is reassembled and installed, but all could go just fine and she fires right up. Also waiting for mother nature to make up her mind. Thanks for all and any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Let us know static compression when you get her assembled. I would run straight up race fuel for break in and start with a 350main. I'm assuming it's an hjr port job, if so don't be surprised if you end up needing bigger than a 30 pilot. Due to the way he tunnels the transfer area I've seen a few end up needing a 35 pilot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Been trying to keep a good pace going with this rebuild as of lately. Been finding great info on here for motor breakdown and rebuild and clymers is a life saver. Any tips on how to stream line search function within BHQ for a specific topic? This past weekend I dug into and went over the motor internals and now have some time before replacement parts show up and reassemble. Found all shift forks were bent and scorched (what causes this) and a 10 year old clutch that thinks it from the 70's getting its groove on. So here are my stupid questions followed after current build list 2007 Banshee with OEM Cylinders at 64.5 bore with MX hardcore porting, new stock length true and welded crank Chariot head with 19cc domes, Chariot reed cage and clutch pancake thingy and water pump cover ( Chariot intake with internal crossover for future build), Mull Engeering water pump gear, impeller, shift star, and shift bearing mod and new shifter shaft with mod. All bearings, seals in entire motor replaced, upgraded bearings clips bushing ect. Stock carbs with tors delete and new intake boots with cross over tube, stock air box no lid with pro design filter and filter mount, FMF Fatty pipes and powercore2 silencers and high capacity rad. Will perform on bench leak down test when reassembled and compression once installed in frame. Ride area is roughly 195M or 639 feet above sea level with temps between -20 to +30 degree C/ -4 f to 86 f, depending on season, humidity always changing ( screw you Ontario climate) 1. 200 watt stator safe to run with new OEM CDI? I assume yes but wanted to see if anyone had heard of any issues of CDI fail rate or issues with high output stator. Have gone through wire harness and bonded rad to motor mount and chassis grounds have been cleaned and hema-sealed, for future Trail Tech install after break in. 2. From reading a jetting start point I'm guessing would be 330 mains, 27.5 pilot, OEM needle middle clip and air screw one turn out from bottom. Any thoughts at this start point. 3. I won't know compression until motor is reassembled so not sure if I will need to mix race gas or not at my riding alt, but still bit confused about this have read to much. Any thoughts? I'm sure there will be more to come once motor is reassembled and installed, but all could go just fine and she fires right up. Also waiting for mother nature to make up her mind. Thanks for all and any input. Other gays answered other questions but as far as search function here, you better use google and bansheehq at the end. type this in google: Best stator bansheehq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Also squish reading is very important, I've seen quite a few his domes need to be changed out to get a desirable number with a slight divergence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 28, 2017 Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 Yes, just use google to search. Type in your topic and follow it with BansheeHQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2017 My bad on dome size (not sure where I got 19cc from)just went through old emails to double check. Domes are for pump gas according to invoice but not sure of size. Sent off email to double check size of them which will more then likely be a lower compression dome. When I get back from work next week, is there a way to tell how many cc domes are I'm drawing a blank if they were part marked or not. That said once back and finish assembly will see what compression is. Also found out that they may be training with work in San Diego in July and Aug. Is this a good time to ride in the dunes or is it to hot, and are there ATV rentals that are close to the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Confirmed with builder good to go with pump gas, jetting as previous stated 330 and 27.5 to start. Have to say customer service from all sight sponsors is impeccable along with BHQ community. Sent questions and had reply in an hour. I'm still waiting to hear back from a local shop regarding a-arms and suspension from a month ago with two follow up calls. Should motor break in be best done at 0 degree of timing. Previous owner had bike set at +2 on timing plate and +2 on the adjustable CDI. Adjustable CDI has been replaced with a new OEM unit. Sorry for the mass of questions. I try to get every thing sorted in my head before getting back at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 29, 2017 Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Let us know how that jetting works out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 If you got the OEM CDI back on there... i'd break it in with what timing you planning to run it at.... usually most people throw it at +4 and call it a day Typically a break in is done for the main reason of ensuring the motor was assembled properly and has no "hiccups" by the time you do a few heat cycles and check it over..... your motor is broken in usually... most tend to take it easy for a few mins riding it the 1st time to make sure its all good but yea... If this is an HJR motor and domes... I do heavily recommend you check squish and compression still at the very least...... wont get into detail on that but yea... The domes should also be stamped with the specs... ID also run larger jets then what you where told by the builder... just my .2c..... (refer back to sleeper06 recommendations) Awesome Thank you. Search via Google made life a bit easier to find info. Taking your recommendations and Read a bunch of checking squish last night, seems pretty straight forward will be checking when back, next week, plus compression Does yamaha offer pilot jet sizes up to 30. Parts guy here had a hard time finding part number for 27.5 pilot. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 29, 2017 Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Don't look for "Yamaha" jets. You'll be paying quadruple for a normal Mikuni jet that was sent to Yamaha and re packaged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Don't look for "Yamaha" jets. You'll be paying quadruple for a normal Mikuni jet that was sent to Yamaha and re packaged.Good point, plus part guy here has a hard time with performance 2 stroke parts, has only dealt with 4 stroke stuff. But ordered an array of jets and some other goodies from F.A.S.T. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted March 30, 2017 Report Share Posted March 30, 2017 Had goood dealings with jetsrus for future refrence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Had goood dealings with jetsrus for future refrenceThey do have a lot. But needed a few other parts and like to buy as much as I can for site sponsors. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadianshee Posted March 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2017 Also squish reading is very important, I've seen quite a few his domes need to be changed out to get a desirable number with a slight divergence.Work was called off for weather (perfect) and parts arrived so spent the day doing final assembly. Domes are 21cc squish is .037 if I did it correct. Just letting motor sit while away allow yamabond to cure a bit . Leak down tester set up ready to go. Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 1, 2017 Report Share Posted April 1, 2017 That's a little tight on squish. What base gasket is in there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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