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Stupid questions while waiting for parts order.


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That's a little tight on squish. What base gasket is in there?

OEM base gasket. Just finished looking at a great how to for squish measurement. I did through spark plug hole method. But going to check compression on next off work rotation. If compression is off I will recheck squish with head removed method (looks much more accurate)

I'm in no rush so don't mind rechecking. What is the tolerance that I should be looking for?

Thanks for the tips

 

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Stock cylinders I like to see .048-.050 at cylinder wall edge and like .055 towards the spark hole. Usually 1* of divergence gets you there and is more forgiving with deto. I've seen short fuse short track engines run tight squish but there a blow torch waiting to happen. If you wanna Pm me your cell I'll show you a pic of how I do it through the plug hole

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Leak down test complete 6 psi for 5 min no leaks.

Tried squish again same results of 0.035 to 0.037, both sides. Should the solder be compressed a significant amount or are you just looking for the strike mark. The treads I've read are showing the solder compressed a lot.

Had solder through spark plug hole, parallel with the wrist pin and turned motor over with fly wheel. Will pull the head to use other method if I have to. This squish is making me nervous May order a set of 22cc domes to be completely stock. What information needs to be provided to order new domes if I have to, e.g. OEM base gasket, Chariot head ECT.

 

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How sure are you that the base gasket you got was OEM thickness. I'd try out a different base gasket before opting to different domes.

 

 

Changing dome CC shouldnt even change your squish unless the domes you have were not cut to proper spec

Thanks for the reply I ordered the gasket from the yamaha stealer. Will prob yank the head off again and try other method to see if results are the same.

 

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no prob... when doing the L solder squish test ive done about 5-6 testes PER side and usually take the most consistent reading.

 

mind you your squish is pretty damn tight and about .010 off.

 

 

if im right you can get .010 .020 and another couple sizes thicker.... just something to keep in mind... if your base gasket is the .010 one... you just answered your squish issue.

So went on over to dealer on way to work to ask a few questions about base gasket thickness. Part guy was like talking to a piece of popcorn and said I quote "sorry dude 4 strokes are the in thing and there is no support for the 2 stoke machines" and passed me off to a guy in the shop.

Was hopping to get some where with him. I explained the motor work that was done and such. Expressed my concern with tbe squish band readings that I have been getting. This is what I was told quote " I'm a certified yamaha tech. I have never heard of such a thing as squish band concerns in the Banshee. With all the upgrades done I should not be to worried about it." You can't make this stuff up. Told him Thank You for their help and left shaking my head.

Going to place an order for some gaskets for site sponsor tomorrow prob look at 0.10 to compare with OEM and 0.20, which I assume should bring squish to 0.045 to 0.047. Can gasket be purchased at 0.015 thickness.

 

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There is plenty of different sizes of base gaskets. This is a prime example of why not to use a stealership. Most guys there haven't a fucking clue!

 

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Edited by bigweav81
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So went on over to dealer on way to work to ask a few questions about base gasket thickness. Part guy was like talking to a piece of popcorn and said I quote "sorry dude 4 strokes are the in thing and there is no support for the 2 stoke machines" and passed me off to a guy in the shop.

Was hopping to get some where with him. I explained the motor work that was done and such. Expressed my concern with tbe squish band readings that I have been getting. This is what I was told quote " I'm a certified yamaha tech. I have never heard of such a thing as squish band concerns in the Banshee. With all the upgrades done I should not be to worried about it." You can't make this stuff up. Told him Thank You for their help and left shaking my head.

Going to place an order for some gaskets for site sponsor tomorrow prob look at 0.10 to compare with OEM and 0.20, which I assume should bring squish to 0.045 to 0.047. Can gasket be purchased at 0.015 thickness.

 

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Where are you from? There has to be a site sponsor or a knowledgeable member here that is with in driving distance.
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There is plenty of different sizes of base gaskets. This is a prime example of why not to use a stealership. Most guys there haven't a fucking clue!

 

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Good to know. Will order an array of them just to have on hand.

Was blown away by the lack of effort in trying to figure it out. I know when a client has questions about their aircraft modifications or have issues I find the answer or at least point them in the right direction to a vendor ect.

 

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For some reason I can't send you pics but some food for thought. When test squish you must put solder on both sides so you don't get rock. When you test just one side you will get a loose reading compared to my way, it's a Lil tricky but I do it all the time through the plug hole.. Test squish my way a few times n take the average. Most oem gaskets are .018-.020 compressed. As long as the squish band is divergent meaning tighter at the edge looser toward plugs I would adjust with base gaskets. If squish is equal through the band or convergence get new domes

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Thanks so much for all the tips and advice. Retested squish with method from sleeper06. I picked up a new caliper (in case) and used two different gauge solder for comparison . This is what I ended up with.

 

0.062 size solder

Squish at cylinder wall 0.53 and 0.55 towards spark plug both cylinders

 

0.125 size solder

Squish at cylinder wall 0.63 and 0.65 towards spark plug.

With the bounce back memory of solder I should be pretty close if I'm understanding this right.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

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thats a big difference in squish readings vs the 2 dif sizes..

 

 

How many tests did you do of each?

 

The larger solder would be more subjected to piston rocking from one side to the other but with Sleepers method that should be prevented.

 

I cant remember what size solder I personally use but I know I have some resistance to turn the motor over by hand when i do it.

 

Basically... your 2nd reading is too loose... your 1st reading your at a nice spot.

 

 

 

Just read your post... I never really accommodated for "bounce back"

Did 3 test for each cylinder with both size of solder pretty much same readings.

There was very little resistance with 0.062 gauge solder but some resistance with 0.125 gauge.

 

 

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