70duster Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Spoke with roger yesterday about their lt arms. Apparently they are re designing them for thread in ball joints and are working with elka on some new geometry for shock location. Price for these are going to be about 750 now for hq guys. The correct shock length for these arms will be 19.25 Will definetly be getting these when i have funds for them Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 JesseG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Interesting. I'll be keeping my fireball LT's and elkas. No sense if me going to a different revision since i cant even out ride stock suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 When mine were built, he mentioned he wanted to make a few changes. Mostly to the upper A arm. Due away with the heims and use the threaded ball joints to adjust camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guns4children Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Fuck suspension. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klever209 Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 I just received their FR lt +2+1 (original style I guess). Roger did mention he's looking into an alternative to the bomb proof ball joint mounts as a cost alternative though. Not exactly sure what that means and information was provided without solicitation for what it's worth. Their fab and materials used are bad ass. Started to mount them last night. What a bitch without the fork spreader bar. Did one side. Elkas arriving next week. Having trouble figuring out which top arm is left or right though 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted March 17, 2017 Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 You want the top ball joint to be just behind the lower ball joint. You want your caster angle 7*+/-1* and your camber -1* to -1.5*. The larger the caster angle the greater high speed stability you'll have but turning sharp will suffer. The smaller the caster angle the better you can turn sharply, but you will need a steering stabilizer because the steering will feel light and twitchy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klever209 Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thumbs up on the info @strm Trpr Back at it tomorrow morning. Will let you know how it turns out. Prog so far: https://www.dropbox.com/s/7hroqjn74zxj45w/IMG_9944.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ckalx0y5i4gvx2/IMG_0001.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/nm6d2bg3cofc7vx/IMG_9999.JPG?dl=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTmachining Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 Don't use neg caster...ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 When viewed from the side, negative caster is when the upper ball joint is slightly in front of the lower ball joint, and as JT stated, you never want negative caster. Try this link. http://lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klever209 Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 @JT correct. Strm Trpr recommendations are +7 (+ or - 1 degree). From some quick research looks like 5-6 is a well rounded number. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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