js2289 Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 (edited) Hello this is my first post. I recently bought a 98/99 banshee from a friend of mine. It has been sitting for a long time, around 10 years or so. It is not running and seems to have low hours/ use and is mostly stock. I recently started working on it to get it going. Still has the tors system. FMF exhaust. I am having a hard time getting it fired. 1, I checked the compression and it is 100psi each cyl with both plugs out. I inspected the bores with a high quailty scope and it still has hatchmarks and pistons look great also removed exhaust and looked up ports which looked fine as well. 2, I wasn't getting spark at first and bypassed the keyswitch and now i have spark. have ngk br8es plugs in it 3, I cleaned the carbs and tried to fire but it doesn't pop. even tried to pop on starting fluid. I ordered a service manual but it has yet to arrive. Any suggestions? Thanks! Edited December 2, 2016 by js2289 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Check choke tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js2289 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Check choke tube Bingo! that was it!! Thanks! Now to figure out clutch issue. Is there any adjustment? It free wheels in gear like its in neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Bingo! that was it!! Thanks! Now to figure out clutch issue. Is there any adjustment? It free wheels in gear like its in neutral.You're gonna have to remove the clutch cover and take a look. Does the cable have tension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js2289 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 You're gonna have to remove the clutch cover and take a look. Does the cable have tension? yes it still has tension . Not as much tension as my cr250 dirtbike. The adjustment wheel is all the way in on the perch. I was reading somewhere the banshee has an internal adjustment in the clutch? I was planning on pulling it apart but my manual hasn't arrived yet. When its jacked up and you shift into gear you can feel a light drag in gear vs neutral on the ground there is no difference from neutral. Figure it might be out of adjustment or fried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Take all of the tension out of the cable and try it. Search for clutch adjustment and there should be some good info, or maybe someone can walk you through it. The clutch lever on the engine case should line up with the arrow on the case with no tension on the cable ..when you push on that lever with your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 This will walk you through it. But yeah just like J madd said, when you push on the actuator arm (push it towards the clutch side) with your hand, with out the cable attached, it should stop at the arrow. So with the cable adjusted properly and cable attached to the arm it should line up at the arrow on the case with a little free play at the perch. A lot of people including myself like the arm to be just a tad behind the arrow on the case (toward the stator side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js2289 Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) Well I dug into it after dinner and the clutch is fried. Clutch material all over the bottom of the case and the steel plates were blued. basket was in good condition as was the outer pressure plate. Cleaned it up all nice with some diesel fuel. Any one have a suggestion for a good quality clutch? Going to be using it for trails. Also mine has hex with a phillips head in the center not the allen. Is that an upgraded part ? Thanks! P.S . is it worth upgrading the plastic waterpump to an aluminum one while i'm in there? Edited December 3, 2016 by js2289 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 (edited) Do your self a favor and get one of these and you might as well upgrade to a billet water pump while your in there if its in your budget. I would go with FAST or driveline clutch. That pancake bearing will be a good mod though. http://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/categories/clutch-transmission/pancake-bearing.html http://drivelineperformance.com/yamaha/banshee/clutch/ Edited December 3, 2016 by Ayesully810 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTmachining Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Hello this is my first post. I recently bought a 98/99 banshee from a friend of mine. It has been sitting for a long time, around 10 years or so. It is not running and seems to have low hours/ use and is mostly stock. I recently started working on it to get it going. Still has the tors system. FMF exhaust. I am having a hard time getting it fired. 1, I checked the compression and it is 100psi each cyl with both plugs out. I inspected the bores with a high quailty scope and it still has hatchmarks and pistons look great also removed exhaust and looked up ports which looked fine as well. 2, I wasn't getting spark at first and bypassed the keyswitch and now i have spark. have ngk br8es plugs in it 3, I cleaned the carbs and tried to fire but it doesn't pop. even tried to pop on starting fluid. I ordered a service manual but it has yet to arrive. Any suggestions? Thanks! Welcome to BHQ! A lot of good info and peeps here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee_fast Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Well I dug into it after dinner and the clutch is fried. Clutch material all over the bottom of the case and the steel plates were blued. basket was in good condition as was the outer pressure plate. Cleaned it up all nice with some diesel fuel. Any one have a suggestion for a good quality clutch? Going to be using it for trails. Also mine has hex with a phillips head in the center not the allen. Is that an upgraded part ? Thanks! P.S . is it worth upgrading the plastic waterpump to an aluminum one while i'm in there? I personally like the driveline clutches(a site sponsor) they grab really well and hold up nicely Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js2289 Posted December 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 I personally like the driveline clutches(a site sponsor) they grab really well and hold up nicely Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Yes i was thinking about the heavy duty or the dune/trail versions. any suggestion? Welcome to BHQ! A lot of good info and peeps here Thank you it has been great so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee_fast Posted December 3, 2016 Report Share Posted December 3, 2016 Yes i was thinking about the heavy duty or the dune/trail versions. any suggestion? Thank you it has been great so far! I run the trail clutch with stock springs...works great!!! Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
js2289 Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 Just finished ordering a bunch of parts for it. clutch, pancake bearing, bars etc. I ordered a new clutch perch to get rid of the parking brake. Is there any way to bypass the tors switches on the throttle and clutch. I am eventually going to delete the entire Tors system down the road. I want to clean up the bar area and wiring. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shee_fast Posted December 9, 2016 Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 Just finished ordering a bunch of parts for it. clutch, pancake bearing, bars etc. I ordered a new clutch perch to get rid of the parking brake. Is there any way to bypass the tors switches on the throttle and clutch. I am eventually going to delete the entire Tors system down the road. I want to clean up the bar area and wiring. Thanks!You can unplug it all if the carbs have the delete kit..cut the wire that on the throttle Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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