trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Just FMF pipes? Stock airbox and filter? What pilot jet? And where are the air screws set at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 1.25 out^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 1.25 out^ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Right but he said he "had to completely change it" after cleaning them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derpy Drifter Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 The air screws are 1 turn out now. I already posted the answers to your other questions. Also I forgot to mention that the throttle valves were WAAY out of sync. The right one was 1/4 of the way open before the left one even moved. I got those synced up perfect and it helped quite a bit with the low end dogging, but its still there a bit. What I mean is, I can hear the deep sound of the engine drawing in air and bogging slightly when I floor it in the low rpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 The air screws are 1 turn out now. I already posted the answers to your other questions.No You said stock jetting as far as you knew, then posted that it had a 270 main. Not stock jetting. What pilot jets?(not screw setting)And stock intake and filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Do u have an air box? Lid on or off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Also, the stock Mikuni's indicate a pilot change is needed if they need much more then 3/4 to a full turn out on the air screw. And you mention 270 mains and 34* temps. If you even have a stock airbox with just a good filter, you may need more fuel on the main in temps that cold. The difference is even more drastic with the air box lid off or even a set of pod filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 That's what I was getting at tricked, he originally thought he was rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derpy Drifter Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 If you read the rest of my posts, you would've seen that I said I thought the jetting was stock because I hadn't yet taken apart the carbs. I just did that this morning and learned that they are 270 jets. I don't have an air box lid and just a single K&N cone filter. I was told by a friend of mine that it was running rich because of the power surge and that I didn't need to choke it on a cold start. Also, when I started leaning it out I was making more and more power the leaner I went Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 If you read the rest of my posts, you would've seen that I said I thought the jetting was stock because I hadn't yet taken apart the carbs. YES, I READ THAT, AND IT TURNED OUT YOU ANSWERED WITH OUT EVEN LOOKING. I just did that this morning and learned that they are 270 jets. THOSE ARE JUST THE MAINS. THERE IS A TOTALLY SEPERATE PILOT JET IN THE CARBS. AIR SCREW ISNT GONNA AFFECT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE. ALL DIFFERENT CIRCUITS. I don't have an air box lid and just a single K&N cone filter. THATS WHAT SLEEPER AND I NEEDED TO KNOW. THAT PROFLOW INTAKE IS GONNA NEED MORE FUEL THEN A STOCK FILTER WITH A LID. I was told by a friend of mine that it was running rich because of the power surge and that I didn't need to choke it on a cold start. STARTING AND WIDE OPEN THROTTLE PERFORMANCE ARE CONTROLED TOTALLY DIFFERENT CIRCUITS. Also, when I started leaning it out I was making more and more power the leaner I went IF YOU HAVEN'T CHANGED JETS, YOU HAVENT WENT LEANER. (Caps ain't shouting, just trying to respond to each part of the post seperately) Check out the jetting FAQ/How To Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ayesully810 Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/99361-what-jets-are-you-using-fill-out-this-form/ and this more importantly.. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23546-what-is-jetting-a-great-how-to-article/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I'm gonna be as nice as possible, tricked n I are extremely well versed in tuning two strokes your not talking to forum idiots . In winter you need 290 main ,30 pilot , toomey needles 4th clip , summer 280 mains 27.5-30 pilot . Fmf seem to like 1 turn out or less with 27.5 pilot so I usually up it . Are you syncing your carbs with a vacuum gauge ? If not your guessing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 Do you look to see what pilots are in it and check you float height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derpy Drifter Posted November 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 I apologize if I didn't say it or make it clear, but I am new to working on banshees. This is my first one, I just got it last Sunday. I'm very familiar with riding them, just not with the tuning. Anyway, I've got it running really strong now, I'm actually staggered at how fast it is for being a stock bore and stroke. It only dogs when I floor it in gear just off idle but that only lasts like half a second then its pulling so hard the front wheels are in the air, or the back wheels are spinning. Does that sound pretty good for what I have? Also, it's worth noting that I'm not looking for the bleeding edge of performance here. I just want it to be fast enough for me, running correctly, and decently reliable. I don't want to be pushing the engine so hard that it's liable to randomly break itself in the middle of a normal ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 Gotcha, we know where you're coming from. Your first step to making tuning easier is to remember this: Idle-1/4 throttle (pilot & air screw) 1/4-3/4 throttle (needle) 3/4-full throttle (main) Main concern is making sure that with colder temps coming in, that you have enough fuel going through the carb or you WILL melt a hole in the piston/s. Your 270's with FMF exhaust and the pro flow intake will more then likely need to be just a touch richer if you want it to be reliable. 270's would typically be ok with the stock airbox with a lid and stock filter but your intake feeds more air. Couple that with colder denser air temps, and that thing will wanna eat just a bit more. Now, your off idle throttle. That is where the pilot and air screw actually make a difference. You are trying to just whack the throttle and get it to come alive and you are getting some hesitation? Typically two strokes will have just a hint of hesitation at that point. It's the nature of the beast. But, there are things you can do to make it seem non existent or so minimal it's not noticed. Simply put, proper tuning. Take the bowl off the carb, and right in front of the brass hex shaped main jet, there will be a recess and inside is a flat head brass jet. Remove that and tell us what number is on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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