Dan7305 Posted October 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Ok, Friday's payday, I'll call up the folks at FAST, get a coil, and crank seals. Do the coil first, if that fixes it, I'll feel confident in swapping the seals and putting it on the trailer to Cali with minor testing. If the coil doesn't fix it, I guess I'll still swap the crank seals, bring it out untested, and if it's still not running right, see if anyone out there can help. I don't think I'll be able to get a good solid test ride in. Deer season and cold air are coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 Pick up coil gap? You can check pto side crank seal by looking for bubbles out of the crankcase overflow tubes during leak down test. You don't have to remove the clutch cover and drain oil/water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted October 25, 2016 Report Share Posted October 25, 2016 If the pipes were plugged, I wouldn't expect the power band to come on at all. Fixing a crank seal is pulling the motor apart again, right? I think I'll leave the leak till after that and then tackle it. HAHA, lazy AF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan7305 Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Tricked, you got it. It's also some hesitation on going all the way to glamis from MN with a motor that's been apart but not tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 You do realize air leaks melt motors down, right? So I guess it makes sense to take a time bomb riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Pressure testers are easy to build n it's cheap insurance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan7305 Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 ...Do the coil first, if that fixes it, I'll feel confident in swapping the seals and putting it on the trailer to Cali with minor testing. If the coil doesn't fix it, I guess I'll still swap the crank seals, bring it out untested, and if it's still not running right, see if anyone out there can help. Previous reading reveals people with larger leaks and no issues with running. Given that, would my slower leak from 6 down to 3 psi in 50 minutes affect how it runs to the point it causes issues? If I buy just the seals, the coil will be bad, if I buy just the coil, it would have been the seals. Murphy's law would bite me. As stated I'm doing both, but I'm going to try the coil first, since that's a quicker swap. If that doesn't fix it, I'll still replace the seals, and I'll still bring it out and hope someone can help fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Have you actually tested for leaks? Or assuming it's the seals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Did you order the seals? It really does only take a few hours to get the motor out replace them and back in. The longest part is letting the sealant dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Just run the mother fucker... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 That post belongs to the facebook group... feeding him what he wants to hear lolIt was clear after the first page that he wasn't going to listen. He doesn't want to tear into his moter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 How much does it leak in 5 mins? Drag racing, I'll run that mofo all day long if it holds air that good. Honestly I put 6 psi in it, and it that needle doesn't start falling after a minute I call it good. Your results may vary. That being said, most of my motors are air tight and will hold 6psi for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 But how do you know if you only leave it sit for a minute You better do like loco and get cam do to it I'm looking for catastrophic leaks, and it's usually pinch time getting ready for a race. And these motors have been tested before with a several minute test. I have let some motors set on the bench for several minutes and not saw a drop in pressure, and I keep a good enough eye on plugs to see a possible leak. I have retested at the track on a few motors, and I never find a leak. Now if it was an unknown motor, I would make damn sure it is tight. But all of mine have been tested every time I take anything off, so when I say I just let it set for a minute, I'm just making sure I didn't fubar anything whilst I was being a parts changer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan7305 Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 I assumed crank seals, since that's what you guys started suggesting. Turns out, I'm blind and it is leaking at the base of the cylinders, BETWEEN the jugs. The bubbles were staying in between, I foolishly thought the bubbles would come out the front or rear, so I didn't look between till I heard the bubbles and started looking harder. Feel free to make fun of me for not getting on the floor and looking. Since I had the flywheel and stator already off, I did spray around that crank seal, and there is no leak. My vent tubes are tied together, I put a film of soapy water across the single opening, the bubble there didn't grow at all. I think that's what you meant for me to do, J-Madd. Also, I forgot to add it in, pickup coil gap is at .018. My problem is that while climbing an easy dune, if i drop JUST under the power band even in FIRST gear, I can't make it up. It WILL NOT make it back onto the power. That doesn't feel like normal operation. Given that people run with a larger leak than I have and they DO NOT have my drivability issues, I would like to nail that down BEFORE it gets too cold outside. Is that ok, knowing it's a base gasket leak? If I can get it running proper through the RPM range, I trust myself to pull the jugs off and re-seal that, without needing a test ride before the trip. I'm leaning towards electrical on the lack of power, as it is basically the same issue I had when the Ricky Stator was on it, but not as bad as that. With the RS it would barely get to the power on pavement. Now it will get there, it just feels like it is struggling to do it, and makes riding a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 I'm anal but I don't like to see any loss, small intake side leak that minimal no biggie, small crank seal or case mating surface big deal. I see sooooo many of these engines go together with terrible cleaning practices and prep . I'm not saying it's a seal at all but I've seen at least 15 motors test good in one crank position then rotate it and it's no Bueno . I've also seen a motor test good on bench but have a semi bad oring in the head and would only let a lil anti freeze in when cylinder was building max pressure then was fine again. I've seen motors with low static pressure but high uccr lift the head because of a lil deto and cause a coolant interference with symptoms like yours . It could be as simple as wrong needle . Could be 1000 things that's why I start with basics 1- get motor to hold air with no leaks 2- put timing at zero to start 3- new plugs 4- electronics test in your case get a known good coil that test out 5- fresh fuel 6- set slides even with proper cable play without idle screws in 7- install idle screw and set sync to 5 cfm with vacuum gauge 8- make sure exhaust packing is good 9- make sure carb clamps get tight enouph to not allow leaks 10- gap plugs 11- make sure exhaust orings are good by head mount 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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