Pops and sputters before power band

[Dan7305]

I'm down in little sahara Oklahoma right now, trying to get my banshee jetted right.

 

I have a cool head with 22cc domes, since that's what came with the head.

Pro circuit pipes.

The dune play port from hjr.

I also have an adjustable timing plate, set to about 3 degrees advance.

Running stock carbs with pods.

TORS was removed when I bought it and I have no clue which caps and slides it has.

 

Currently I have a 32.5 pilot, which seems to be fine. On the hard pack back home it would tractor up a hill just fine just off idle.

 

My needle is in the middle slot, and I have a 340 main in it. I stated at 330, went to 320. At 320 it didn't pop as much, but felt less powerful while popping.

 

The 340 pops more than the 330.

 

Given the mods, I'm nervous to go leaner than 320.

 

Am I wrong to expect a smooth climb in rpm when I mash it wide open from just off idle?

 

I took a video. When accelerating, I'm going wide open.

 

[camp0429]

Hard to tell from the video but sounds like you may be a tad rich on the needle, when I had stock carbs I was at 350 mains on ported stock cylinders, also with Pro Circuits and pods. You should be pretty close with the 340's. Have you tried adjusting your needles any?

[Dan7305]

I did try riching them. I could try pulling them up one from the middle.

 

Do the needles affect anything at wide open though. I watched the video after posting it, and if I weren't the one recording, I wouldn't believe it was at wot. In the video aside from when I was turning around, I'm holding the throttle wide open in second gear, or off it totally.

[Dan7305]

I gave it a shot dropping the needle, no difference. I'm wondering if it's something other than a carb issue at this point.

[sangheraent]

I had a similar problem bike had a 3 second delay before it hit the powerband. I had to drop the needle all the way to the bottom clip it got slightly better every notch and now its gone.

Edited October 7, 2016 by sangheraent

[Dan7305]

I've got one clip to go, I'll try that tomorrow. Maybe I need a different needle.

[Dan7305]

Do these stators have separate windings for high and low rpm? Could the high rpm side be getting weak?

[J-Madd]

Do these stators have separate windings for high and low rpm? Could the high rpm side be getting weak?

No

[trickedcarbine]

Air leak?

[Dan7305]

I can't find one on the intake. I haven't done a solid leak down though, I'll do that when I get home.

[trickedcarbine]

Look around the base gasket.

[Big Mike NY]

Sounds like you may have to lean the needle clip position.. Is the bike running before and after the mid range break up?

[Dan7305]

It runs well at lower RPM, it'll tractor  fine, and on the power it runs great also.

 

On a whim this morning I took the multimeter to the stator and the coil. The stator is right in the good range, according to the factory manual, while the coil is considerably out of spec, to the point that my fluke cant see any connection between the plug output and the black connector. so, I'll be buying a coil and giving that a shot. 

Edited October 11, 2016 by Dan7305

[sleeper06]

Test cap to cap , your not testing it correctly

[Dan7305]

I did some reading and figured that out. I do get about 10k ohms across the 2 plug outlets, I pulled the wires off to check just the coil. It's a Dynatek coil, not sure if they normally read high or not.

 

I also did a proper leak down and found that I lose about 3 pounds in 50 minutes.

 

Should I start another thread in the normal Mods & repairs forum, since I don't think the issue lies with jetting at this point?