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Carbs flood out when bike is warmed up


jakerusso45

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Hi, I recently rebuilt the carbs on my banshee and I'm having some issues getting them adjusted correctly. I installed a Vito's jet kit with their red racing needles while I was in there as well. I'm starting with the biggest jet that came in the kit like they recommended which was 340 mains and 30 pilots with the needle set on the 3rd position. The motor is completely stock the only mods I have are +4 advanced timing, k&n pods with outer wears, and DG pipes (I know their not the best exhaust but they came on the bike and I don't have enough money to buy a different set right now). I have the air screws set at 2 turns out and the carbs are synced up and installed correctly. The issue that I run into is once the bike is warmed up it seems to idle nicely and then will just shut off and if I try to ride it the top end is perfect when when I slow down and stop the carbs load up with fuel and floods out. I checked my float height before putting it back together and it seemed to be in spec and it never did this before I took it apart. Is my pilot too big? I figured before I changed anything I would get your guys opinion.

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Ok that's what I was thinking. I tried a 25 pilot when I went on lunch today because it's the only other size I have on hand (I would have switch the main too but I didn't see your post until now) and after about one pass it flooded out the carbs again. So basically what's happening since my main is too large that when decelerating it has already pumped way to much fuel into the carbs making it flood out when I'm not on the throttle? I'll switch the main out for a 290 when I get off of work today and go from there. Thanks for the advice!

 

 

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Edited by jakerusso45
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I'm around 500' as well so I'll give those jets a try. I did put in a 290 main last night and the bike did the same thing. Started somewhat easily idled a little high so I backed down a little with the idle screws and then took it for a ride. It bogged right when I let off the clutch but picked itself back up when I got on it. I did a lap behind my house and when I started slowing down it sounded like the bike completely cut out and when I gave it gas nothing unless I held it pinned so it couldn't idle down. I limped it back to the garage and when it finally died out it was leaking gas out of the over flow tubes. I have no idea what is causing this.

 

 

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Jetting here is not the issue, there is only 2 things that controls the level of fuel in the bowl & that's the float valve & float. Something is not right, adjustment height should be 16mm or 5/8 of an inch, either floats have moisture in them or have a tight spot not allowing the valve to close fully, faulty valves, some crap stuck in the seat not letting the valve seal properly. What ever it is that where I would be looking.

 

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Edited by RIPPIN' IT UP
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Jetting here is not the issue, there is only 2 things that controls the level of fuel in the bowl & that's the float valve & float. Something is not right, adjustment height should be 16mm or 5/8 of an inch, either floats have moisture in them or have a tight spot not allowing the valve to close fully, faulty valves, some crap stuck in the seat not letting the valve seal properly. What ever it is that where I would be looking.

 

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16?? That doesn't sound right.

I believe the Clymers says 20-22 or in that area

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16?? That doesn't sound right.

I believe the Clymers says 20-22 or in that area

Yes your right sheerider11, just checked the manual & it's 20-22mm or .80-.88in. Must have gotten confused with another carb. Thank you for pointing that out.

 

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I checked the the float height again while I have them apart and it's right around 21mm. 810d496bd55a944daf4b7d6122c32275.jpg

The caliper is set at 22mm

 

I did have the carbs sitting apart under a shop towel for about 2 months. Could the floats have gotten moisture in them because of that. The needle doesn't seem to be getting hung up and it's also brand new.

 

 

 

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Alright I'm really starting to get frustrated with this thing. I tried bumping my needles up to the second positions from the top just to see and nothing changed. I also checked compression to start ruling out the basics and I had 105 in both cylinders so that was good. It has a pretty strong spark as well. I don't think my timing plate could be causing this but what do you guys think? It never did this before but I don't see how advancing my timing +4 would cause my carbs to flood out. If you guys are curtain it's a float issue I'll bite the bullet and spend the $50 on new ones but I'd like to rule out a couple more things first. Thanks again guys I'd probably have given up and started saving up for new carbs by now if I was going at this alone

 

 

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When I let off the throttle and don't get back on the gas right away it bogs out and dies. It then leaks gas out of the over flow tubes and is impossible to start unless I push start it. This is why I'm pretty sure it's flooding itself out and yes the plugs are soaked. I haven't seen fuel over filling the carbs because it only happens for that split second when the bike dies out and I'm assuming while I decelerate after putting a decent load on the motor. It never does it while it's idling only when you put a load on the motor. I completely rebuilt the carbs with a shindy kit so the needles and seats are already brand new

 

 

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