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Posted

Who the fuck cares....top secret shit on junk that nobody gives a fuck about except a handfull of people. Its not like this is a multimillion dollar sport with sponsors and televised races. Stupidest fucking thing i have seen on here in a long time. I guess this top secret shit is something ground breaking legitimate builders who have been doing these motors for 20 years or more havent thought of.....end rant...shouldnt even have bothered. Dumb fucking shit.

 

FKN JUNK

 

LOLOL

 

Dude is something else for sure.

Posted

Not cookie cutter but uses a forged crank vs billet and only a 4mm crank with 11 paddle haulers. RU I answer peeps questions about the junk I have 99.9% of the time. I pay a lot of money to have wat I have so I do keep bout 1% of info on the DL. I post up pics all the time and prob share more than I should but this is BHQ. It's all about helping, learning, seeing cool shit and meeting peeps

  • Like 2
Posted

ive freely shared info as well when I can. anyone wants to know how to make their own tank lmk. the cr500 pancake bearing is hella better than the one supplied with most the kits. roller bearing instead of the 8 ball behind the sprocket is good way to beef up the lower end on bikes that do a lot of clutch dumps

Posted

ive freely shared info as well when I can. anyone wants to know how to make their own tank lmk. the cr500 pancake bearing is hella better than the one supplied with most the kits. roller bearing instead of the 8 ball behind the sprocket is good way to beef up the lower end on bikes that do a lot of clutch dumps

Wait, so do you have a good list of bearings I can use?

I have a trans on the bench I want to send out and I beat the crap out of the clutch and trans. The whoops and all the feathering don't help.

Also a crank on the shelf is life to have heavier bearings installed on.

Posted

pickup the oem cr500 pancake and thrust washers. fits like a glove onto the banshee pancake unit. trans roller bearing has to be the NUP style with sides on both sides of the inner race. you can use any brand but it has to be that style of inner race. adds double the load rating over the oem 8ball. perfect for anybody wanting more reliability or on the bigger engines that may not want to use a bearing support plate. I use the german ones from ebay their $75 but some of the other brands may be cheaper. I will warn you also that you may or may not have to have the circlip groove cut in. might be some that have the groove already cut in. basically the bearing is the same size as used on the crankshaft mains. NUP 305 ECP is what im using . fig4 is the style you need http://www.skf.com/group/products/bearings-units-housings/roller-bearings/cylindrical-roller-bearings/single-row-cylindrical-roller-bearings/basic-design-bearings/index.html

 

not sure what to tell ya on the crank. 4 rollers is expensive and youll want straight cuts plus the cases will have to have 3 grooves cut in but if you got the coin then you could do it. other wise just use some heavier duty ball bearings. honestly I would probly just use heavier duty ball style then the crank will drop in without the extra work and money

 

20160624_222300_zpsu2qfvzua.jpeg

Posted

What's with these flat billed hat wearing dudes running 20" to 22" rims on their trucks these days? 17" is biggest I'd want to go.

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