Runaway shee during Idle

[hoppedupandcutdown]

You need to do a leak down test with the right side cover off.

[guns4children]

Take pictures of your carbs and such. You probably have something fucked up and don't know it.

[slater]

You need to do a leak down test with the right side cover off.

 

first order of business

[Larry's Shee]

After you seal the keyway on right side crank, do your leakdown test. Then do compression test. Post results.

Then list ALL your modifications and list carb settings. Pilot, main, needle numbers. Someone familiar with single carb will tell if you are close.

Also need to know your elevation and temperature.

 

Do not try richening to clean oil out !! When you get things straightened out start with new plugs again.

While fucking around ohm coil and plug caps separately. Trim 1/4" off plug wires and install caps with dab of dielectric grease.

 

Check/set pickup coil gap .018" no rust on the nubs. If one is considerably higher than the other LIGHTLY sand it down.

[trickedcarbine]

Check cable tension/slack

[slater]

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help, will be a week before I can stop by my friends to use his leakdown tester again. Was holding. At 6psi before I cleaned out the crankcase so Im hopeing i just cleaned the keyway out and thats it. If not and I have to split the case thats going to suck. Unfortunately I have this gut feeling its the seal based on how much it must be leaking to drain the fluid so much in one day and cause the right side to not fire when tuned to the original spec that worked before.

 

Fingers crossed.

 

Thanks larrysshee i will check all of that and make changes stated also.

 

Tricked carbine , thanks added to my to do list.

 

Appreciate all the help guys.

[slater]

Ok guys, in a few days I will be going to do my leakdown test.

 

I feel very confident that the leak will be the right inner seal that seals the crank from the case.

 

If this is the case I have found a few options and would like some feedback from you guys on these.

 

OPTION ONE: I have found that many have used a method of drilling small wholes into the seal and using sheet metal screws to shimmy it out using the bearing as the wedge to push it out, then use a cylinder and a rubber mallet / gobs of grease to put the new one back in. (sounds sketchy to me but the only thing that could go wrong is / tear the seal or crack the bearing wall) in this case I would need to go to option two anyway.

 

OPTION TWO: Split the case (OMG) and redo the entire lower. This will suck because I will need to replace all lower seals / gaskets since they are probably the originals and it will absolutely leak after it has been split if I do not go full new on all seals.

 

THE QUESTION: should I just crack the damn case and do it anyway or option 1 first if there are no other leaks found on the lower? Then if I split the bearing I could then go for option 2.

 

If anyone knows of a kit that includes all lower gaskets / seals needed to split the case and put back together new, please point me in that direction. I have also heard that the aftermarket brand gaskets / seals are not recommended for doing a full lower, any comment on this?

 

Thanks guys

[sheerider11]

Call fast.

For like 90 bucks he has a full bottom end rebuild "kit" any motor I do I order one. Has everything g you need.

You can also get the 1211,base gaskets and intake gaskets.

Just tell him what you need to do and he'll set you up.

Work smarter not harder. Just do it right the first time. Not 2 times to only do what you could've done once.

[Larry's Shee]

Only time I've seen mention of seals without splitting cases is during middle of ride trip, then did it right way when home.

[slater]

Ya thats what ill do. "Fast?" whats their website or contact info?

[sheerider11]

Ya thats what ill do. "Fast?" whats their website or contact info?

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Farmandsandtoys.com

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[sleeper06]

The seals have a rubber retaining ring that prevents it from moving. As stated I've done it in a pinch but there's a risk to hurt more than was originally wrong

[slater]

Call fast.

For like 90 bucks he has a full bottom end rebuild "kit" any motor I do I order one. Has everything g you need.

You can also get the 1211,base gaskets and intake gaskets.

Just tell him what you need to do and he'll set you up.

Work smarter not harder. Just do it right the first time. Not 2 times to only do what you could've done once.

 

Ill definitely need these also, I just got a brand new pump gasket and case gasket, wont those still be fresh enough after the few days they where on or does 1 use and oil soaking in cause them to be worthless?

 

Thanks

 

 

The seals have a rubber retaining ring that prevents it from moving. As stated I've done it in a pinch but there's a risk to hurt more than was originally wrong

 

Ya, Im going to do it right the first time. Have it be good for a few years.