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Runaway shee during Idle


slater

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just got done putting the shee back together after a full strip and rebuild. Only change was main jet down one size because I was running too rich and c clip down to middle from up one. iddles fine for a bit then runs off and boggs out  sounding like it floods itself.

 

I feel like its the c clip position thats doing it, but could it be the needle diameter matched with the 1 size down main jet? but that doesnt make sense to me.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

Edited by slater
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I did, but my float bowl is too small for my setup, it worked fine before, I just didnt have a huge topend but could still hit 80 in 5th with my gearing. I have tryd setting level to the spring, and it sputters and once in a while takes off for a minute before dieing, then I have maxed it out and it will drive slowly and if you give it gas boggs down as expected. at level I was having these issue stated above.. im dumbfounded. Can needle C clip location cause some of this.

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I will test tomorrow if my c clip location is wrong, I believe I may have mistaken location and whent from 2nd from bottom to 2nd from top.

 

If only I hadnt lost the paper I wrote the setup on.. atlease I kept my air / fuel mix and the idle screw.

 

EDIT: Im thinking c-clip and clumsyness note keeping the notes, at 1/4 throttle I get no response past that. just 1/4 throttle all the time with current float setup.

Edited by slater
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Just reset float to level, changed C- clip position to 2nd from bottom, worsened the problem, barely ran. ran best at c-clip 2nd from top with idle screw set to working position from previous setup, air screw is set to previous setup aswell that worked before. Everything is the same as it was working previously. except c clip. Should I go for top position.

 

also maybe important to note, changing idle screw setting or air screw setting has no effect on how the bike is running at all.

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Yes, although I dont have the tool for it I have always set it by sight based on where the spring begins to compress and having the float level at that exact moment. Is that not accurate enough?

 

I noticed that when I put my idle screw all the way in im getting a better idle now. Im guessing that when I put the new cap on and the appropriate cable nuts on top of the cap (that where not there before) it may have changed my idle.. Is this possible?

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Use a measuring stick and cut a peice of cardboard in a "L" shape at the correct spec for your carb. << homemade tool

 

Yes changing stuff with cable and caps can affect your idle if that and your idle screws weren't correct.

 

BTW, What carbs? TORS or no? If stock and no, idle screws installed on carb body?

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I got the idle very close now. Boggs at 1/4 throttle with to much fuel. Im betting the last time I had the bike together was during winter so that would explain that. Its probably 50 degrees hotter right now. Been so long since i had it in peices painting and such. Its def running rich, new plugs whent back fast during testing.

 

Question, the cable cap added space to the gap, between the top of the cap and the bend. Probably 1/2 inch or close to that. What is the effect of that? What is it causing to happen in my carb?

 

Also no tors 35mm carb keihin, yes to idle screw, its set 1/2 turn out, air screw is 1.75 turn out and idle is fine, up until about 1/4 throttle, bowl is now set to spec, it was quite close but off by a couple hairs. Running same.

 

I think im good now, i believe I just need to rejet because I bet last ride was cold weather and im good up to 1/4 throttle.

 

Any thoughts?

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