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Banshee will only spark when push started


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I'm new to the site, just picked up a 87 banshee. Sat for about 5 years. I cleaned it up and got it running. It started and ran for a few days while I was working on the jetting. Parked it one day, next day no spark. Coil tested bad so I replaced it, no spark. Stator was rusted but tested ok, I replaced it due to its age and thought that was the problem. No spark. I had tested every wire, switches, grounds so I figured the cdi must be bad. Bought used factory unit, plugged it in and had spark. Started one time and then would not start. Went through harness again and got intermittent spark kick starting it. Finally fed up decided to push start it. I now have one constant, it will push start every time and run fine. Will kick start once in a while. I decided since I can push start it I would swap parts. Runs same with both coils, runs pretty much the same with both stators, plugged old cdi in and would not start at all. I was under the impression that cdi box would either work or it wouldn't, any thoughts would be appreciated. And please this is 100% an ignition/electrical issue. It's not compression or fuel, I've already eliminated those.

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Many causes of hard starting, bad reeds being one. Weak spark being another.

I see no mention of the TORS, make sure that is unplugged. No mention of pickup coil gap, .018 at both nubs which are rust free.

Make sure Stator to plate and plate to engine are corrosion free, that's your only ground.

For "testing purposes" unplug kill switch and unplug/jump key switch. Ya I know, "They ohm out" bla,bla,bla...... have to eliminate them from equation.

 

ALL wires ohm out ?? One end to other??

 

 

 

 

 

Why would spark have anything to do with reeds, it will not spark consistently when kicked.

Pretty sharp of you knowing reeds and spark are not related.

 

I asked the question only to help diagnose the problem.

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-Tors eliminated

- Key switch bypassed

- Kill switch unplugged

- Cleaned stator plates although I'm not sure they are the ground but anyway I cleaned them.

- Used in line tester for spark

- pick up gap tested

I do appreciate the help but I am no newbie to this, I'm a pretty good mechanic that's why I said it's not fuel or compression or reeds, the thing honestly will kick over and spark then 5 mins later you can kick and kick and kick and it will not spark.

 

Since I am able to push start it I did the following, used 2 stators with different plates and coils, runs the same, used 2 flywheels runs the same, 2 coils runs the same, 2 wiring harnesses runs the same, original cdi box will not run, used oem box will push start, so I think my question is will a CDI box cause this, I was under the impression that they either work or they don't but I also know that they use an internal capacitor to store energy to send a pulse to the coil, is it possible there is an internal fault causing this condition?

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Maybe you have a weak leg. Try kicking it over with some work boots or racing boots. Don't use crocs or flip flops. Those don't give you enough force to turn the engine over fast enough. When all else fails drink beer and ride a trustworthy 3 wheeler

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OEM stator? Its good that you actually tested spark with an inline tester and know its not always sparking. Lots of people equate not starting or intermittent starting with "no spark" when thats not the problem at all.

 

It should spark even kicking slowly.

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Used 2 stators, one is the oem original, the other is a used what I thought was oem but looks to be aftermarket. Tried them both and runs the same. Using the inline tester will not light up kicking it, took the tank off and pulled down the road and it lights up. Just went out today, started on 4 kicks twice, then 20 kicks, then kicked it about 30 times and would not start. Prior to the spark issue it would start on 1 or 2 kicks every time. Replaced coil first, then stator, then cdi, only after replacing cdi did I ever get spark again. And again it will not run at all with the old cdi plugged back in.

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