Dunatic619 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 (edited) Thanks sheerider. I'll get at driveline form some domes. But, I don't know the port specs, like intake of x, exhaust of y. I'll hit them up and let them know what I'm running and see if they can help me out. I know HJR gets his domes from NOSS. Figures since that's where most went for domes, it would be ok. I am going to throw the new domes in and check squish. Just make sure everything is good with that. Is there a best method for checking squish? I know of 2 ways to do it. 1: thru the spark plug hole, 2: with the head off and placing a piece of soder in the cylinder, put head on, tighten to specs, crank, remove head. I personally would like to do the spark plug hole. Don't really want to mess with removing the head again and having to get the damn o rings in place. Edited May 9, 2016 by Dunatic619 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Google piston wash. In over 500 photos, I did not find one example of a piston that cleans in the center and carbons up perfectly in the band. That's fucky IMO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 What would u recommend trick? I want to get this shit fixed the right way the first time. Should I even bother swapping domes and checking for squibs now? Or just get at driveline ASAP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeMachining Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Google piston wash. In over 500 photos, I did not find one example of a piston that cleans in the center and carbons up perfectly in the band. That's fucky IMO.I did the same this morning lol Envoyé de mon GT-P5113 en utilisant Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 Switched domes. Buttoned head back up. Passed leak down. On to check squish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 (edited) Well... Check this shit out. I didn't have time to do a squish test. So my boy tells me, "bro, I can do it for you, so you can hurry up and get your shit back together." Powder called and said frame and parts are ready. So I let him do it. He wants to go thru the spark plug hole. I tell him no. Do it by removing the head. That's what he does. Squish comes back at .0420 right and .0425 left. Seems like a decent squish to me. But then he says, "bro, some of the solder wire from the left cylinder didn't make it out." Wtf?!?! Turns out he got a littl overzealous when cranking by hand. A piece of the solder was cut by one of the ports in the cylinder and it wasn't the exhaust port. I pulled out the freeze plug from the leak down and it wasn't in there. SHIIIIIIIT! My gut tells me to break apart and pull out the solder. But, it's solder, soft ass and malleable. I'd imagine it might not be that bad. But if I have to break down, think I just go 10ml with DL cylinders. I really don't want to do that, this engine has like 10 hours on it. What say you??? Edited May 11, 2016 by Dunatic619 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Take it apart. Get a baby of ziploc bags and boxes and take lots of photos on your bike. They are really not bad to do and don't need much for tools. Its just a couple hours. Your buddy is a doofus, but you should be able to do a squish test through a spark plug hole. When you cut it off you need to file the end in to a nice smooth end. Bend it in to an L and fit it against the edge of the dome where the squish band profile meets the bore. It has to be there before you roll it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I'm hopping I can pull just the juggs and its on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I'm hopping I can pull just the juggs and its on top.Worth a shot. May be able to see it in the bottom. I'll bet it's been sheared off in one of the transfers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 That's what I was thinking too. Hope to have it open tonight to get a look. On a side note. HJR ported my cases too. But if I do switch to DL 68 mm cylinders, would that case port need to be redone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 That's what I was thinking too. Hope to have it open tonight to get a look. On a side note. HJR ported my cases too. But if I do switch to DL 68 mm cylinders, would that case port need to be redone? Probably. It's possible it might just be a retouch. Worst case would be to add Tig weld or epoxy to some stuff that doesn't line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Thank GOD! You can see it in the bottom right hand side of the pic. About 1/4" long. I actually pulled out 2 pieces. I'm so glad I was able to get it before they went into the bottom end. I was even starting to price 10ml cranks. Looks like this little 4ml will be around for awhile longer. Now unfortunately my chrome dude's parents were in a really bad accident. So my chrome has to take a back seat for awhile. No biggie, bike will still look good, just a little off til I get the chrome and polish done. But I'm going to put it back together complete because I have a big riding trip to Mexico starting the 23rd. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Right on. Use a blow gun on the compressor to blow out the crank case area and bearings. Be careful not to aim it at the seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted May 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 So now I've sold my cylinders, and I'm probably going with a set of DL LP timing cylinders. Looking for a nice torque curve to ride and hoping these cylinder will help me achieve that. I'm also thinking maybe going serval, but we'll see how that goes. Got my frame back from powder. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Lookin good! Gonna let driveline port them too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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