stoopidfast Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 So, it was time to repair my shifting problem. After repairing that issue and reassembly of the motor I tried doing a leak down test and the air is coming out the R/S crank seal as quick as it is being applied to the intake port. I have double checked and the seal is installed correctly and I can not figure out why it is leaking? I have looked through my Clymer manual and looked on line at parts diagrams to see if I am missing something and cannot see what it is??? Any help, suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Seal the key way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoopidfast Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Silly question... Does the primary gear and key have to be installed? I would assume so since you asked about the key way. I will try that and let you know. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Silly question... Does the primary gear and key have to be installed? I would assume so since you asked about the key way. I will try that and let you know. thanks.Dude. I don't mind dumb questions. But fucking really?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoopidfast Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Unfortunately I don't know everything and I do believe in stupid questions get stupid answers, so thanks for pointing me in the correct direction. You were correct on the key way, but you already knew that. I only have to be told things once so I will remember this in the future. I now just have a very slow leak to find. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Pay no attention to him. Like you've never are a mistake or bone head move !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne_smith97 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 If you didn't put rtv on your key then it could still be your slow leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Make sure the Keyway has sealant on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 Pay no attention to him. Like you've never are a mistake or bone head move !! I don't know, a 1.5" hole with a see through bearing. Like I said, I don't mind dumb questions. But a complete lack of common sense is totally different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoopidfast Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 Sealant was applied to the key. The slow leak is coming from the top right side of the billet intake manifold. the weight of the carb and air filter has pulled the rubber away from the metal just enough to brake the seal. I put some RTV silicone on the surface and let set over night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted May 4, 2016 Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 See if your RTV says "Note: Not recommended for parts in contact with gasoline." Most all do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoopidfast Posted May 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2016 My mistake. I did not use RTV. I used Permatex 85420 and it is fuel resistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elconor Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Upp intakes will fix your intake problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayzx10r Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 (edited) The thing about billet intakes is... they suck on so many levels.That being said, my opinion is they require a specific method to install. You can't just torque the cyls down because the one piece intake needs a flat common plane to mate across the 2 cylinders.The following order of operations has worked for me and aligned the cyls to the billet intake.Install cylinders equally tight, just a few ft/lbs.Mount the 1 piece intake and tighten half way to torque spec.Next, final spec torque the cyls. Finally, spec torque the intakes.I recommend ditching the blingy billet intake and picking up a pair of separate UPP intakes.... that eliminates alignment issues == but hey, that's just my opinion!Good luck on your repair. Edited May 5, 2016 by jayzx10r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 5, 2016 Report Share Posted May 5, 2016 Sealant was applied to the key. The slow leak is coming from the top right side of the billet intake manifold. the weight of the carb and air filter has pulled the rubber away from the metal just enough to brake the seal. I put some RTV silicone on the surface and let set over night. Is this rubber that was bonded to the metal, but is now leaking ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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