Dan7305 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 First trip with the banshee, figured I'd jet it in little Sahara Oklahoma. In all my experiments, I could never get it to easily get into the pipes. If I got into the pipes in first or second,I could go like hell. In third gear or above, it wouldn't run bad, but not right, but would never get high enough in rpm to come alive. The machine, 2004 banshee LE HJR dune play port Bored up a size to clean the bores up. Pro circuit platinum pipes Pods on stock carbs Rickystator dc kit with adjustable timing at about 3 degrees. VF4 reeds and spacers I had the motor apart, all new seals, new HotRods crank from FAST. I got it running on: 320 main 30 pilot I think stock needles on middle clip. It still looked a bit rich, so one step at I term I brought it down to 290... Which to me seems kind of insane. I started at 0 degrees timing, bumped it up to 3 and that made a big difference. But still couldn't get into the revs in higher gears. One of the guys down there noticed the tube that goes between the intakes wad blocked off and loaned me his. At this point I must have broke the seal on the reeds, as I went way lean and hitting the reeds with carb cleaner would bring the idle down. I know the bike is 2 stroke, but I feel like I should be able to get it up there in third and fourth on the flat at the south entrance, and not have it fall on it's face when I try a drag race type start. Any pointers on what I need to try? I'm thinking maybe a single carb setup, but I don't know if that's going to give me what I need. Still heading home, so if I don't reply, I might be driving. Thanks. Quote
hoppedupandcutdown Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 After passing a leak down test, I'd try a known good OEM stator and pick-up Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Posted April 9, 2016 Ok, I can throw the stock one back on, not sure on the known good part, as I never had it running before swapping it out. Quote
hoppedupandcutdown Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 passing leakdown and good electrical are of greatest importance, otherwise jetting is just chasing your tail. A buddy just had a similar problem, The dyno revealed it was hitting a wall at 6k RPM, ended up being a bad wire going to the pick up. It eventually broke in two when they were changing out the stator to try that. Quote
camp0429 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 You should need way more than 290's. I have a similiar set up ported with pods when I had stock carbs it ran good with 350's. Same pipes, stock stator Quote
Larry's Shee Posted April 9, 2016 Report Posted April 9, 2016 Everything is covered EXCEPT not a good idea to make that large of a jump on jetting unless a person is well experienced in jetting. 1 Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Posted April 9, 2016 I was moving one jet at a time, I just made it down to 290. Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Posted April 9, 2016 Update question, I had the adjustable timing plate set at 0 lined up with the case split. Is that firing at tdc, or is that saying 0 degrees from stock? Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 9, 2016 Author Report Posted April 9, 2016 Wish I would have come across the bad reviews before I had installed... Guess I gotta start searching before purchases. Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Posted April 10, 2016 I've seen it in a few other posts, but just in this one, surfrjag and trickedcarbine both said they're bad. Quote
Dan7305 Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Posted April 10, 2016 (edited) Double post. Edited April 10, 2016 by Dan7305 Quote
Larry's Shee Posted April 10, 2016 Report Posted April 10, 2016 I was moving one jet at a time, I just made it down to 290. Apologys , if nothing else it may keep others from making that mistake. So many threads of similar symptoms caused by Ricky stators. My theory is they don't have enough juice to burn the fuel at high RPMs Quote
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