1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Went out for a short ride today.. started up first kick and idled really high then reved out... I noticed one of the tops of carbs must have loosened up tightened it back down it sounded better figured that was my problem and continued my ride. About 4 miles out it started to over rev on me again I checked to make sure nothing fell off and made sure caps were tight and they were. Tried to start it back up and it reved out so I had my friend come pick me up and we threw it in truck and brought it home. I was thinking maybe it's the clearance of how much my slides are open at idle and my twist throttle is out of adjustment. Maybe lean still? Any ideas? This bike has thrown me some curveballs. I'm to the point where I know it has been through way too much I'm very close to just taking it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Went out for a short ride today.. started up first kick and idled really high then reved out... I noticed one of the tops of carbs must have loosened up tightened it back down it sounded better figured that was my problem and continued my ride. About 4 miles out it started to over rev on me again I checked to make sure nothing fell off and made sure caps were tight and they were. Tried to start it back up and it reved out so I had my friend come pick me up and we threw it in truck and brought it home. I was thinking maybe it's the clearance of how much my slides are open at idle and my twist throttle is out of adjustment. Maybe lean still? Any ideas? This bike has thrown me some curveballs. I'm to the point where I know it has been through way too much I'm very close to just taking it in Don't take that bike to any shop unless you got a well known shop close by that's known for Banshee work. Read through some of the horror stories on here for more details on that. We will be more help to you than most shops, not to mention your getting to know your machine which will come in very handy. For your high rev situation, you said you found a carb top had come loose, how about the adjusters on the carb tops? Make sure their not loose also. Did you sync your slides when you were working on your carbs? Pull your pods off and work your throttle, both slides have to open at the exact same time, if they don't, adjust with the adjusters on the carb tops. With your pod's off and your slides in sync, work your throttle wide open and make sure your slides are not sticking. They have been known to get dirty and stick. You could have an air leak causing a lean rev, leakdown test should rule that out. I never personally seen a lean rev so I can't comment on that, I have however seen the cable adjusters come loose and cause a high rev situation. Could also have a junk throttle cable sticking. I'm guessing you dont have a carb sync tool, I would suggest ordering one from Farm and Sand toys if you don't have one. Anytime you pull carbs for any reason, throw the tool on there to make sure your carbs are in sync, and anytime you mess with the carb tops you should make sure your slides are still in sync. It's well known that the throttle cables can stick, I always change mine every year or so and keep the old one as a spare. At the very least get a cable lube tool and lube your cable from time to time. Personally, I would throw that twist throttle as far a I possibly could, but that's a personal opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Yeah I took filters off last night the slides seem within reason. But I do know that the sync tool makes them exact. I have a feeling the cable is adjusted in such a way it's always giving a little throttle. My carbs don't have a screw to stop the bottom of slides so we guessed at where they had to be at idle. Also I don't think cables are loose enough to tel the engine it's not getting throttle. If that isn't it looks like leak down tester,carb sync tool are coming next. (BTW I hate the twist throttle too the p.o.s came on it when I bought it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Upon jetting the other day we noticed slides were bottoming out all the way and wouldn't idle. We opened them up a bit (is there a spec height?) And it idled so we left it I'm hoping this us my problem along with too tight of twist throttle with no slack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Get you a tors delete kit, it will come with new caps, new cable, (for thumb throttle if that's what you want to run) and idle screws. Do not use the throttle cable to set the idle, there is not enough slack in the cable then and when you turn the bars it revs up. You can get a throttle assembly easy enough, you can get a Honda unit cheap enough and they are way better than stock banshee throttles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I'll need a different tors setup for push throttle? Where can I find one? And is there a way to set it as is for right now? I'm out of build money unfortunately. It does have adjusters on top of caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I would upload pics but I haven't been able to. Says file too large Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 I'll need a different tors setup for push throttle? Where can I find one? And is there a way to set it as is for right now? I'm out of build money unfortunately. It does have adjusters on top of caps. Yes you need a different cable for a thumb set up. The tors delete will come with a new cable and the idle screws you need. Go through tapatalk to unpload pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 You don't have to get a delete kit, you can just get a cable and 2 idle screws if you want since you already have the carb caps. Then all you would need is the throttle unit itself. Get a used Honda one on egay for about $20 and be done with it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 So there is no adjustment the way it is that could possibly work? Idk how sure I am of anything being problematic or just improperly tuned. Obviously I'll take your advice on the throttle and cables but if it could be adjusted as is I would like to to that. It wasn't doing any of this up until we messed with throttle adjustment and slides for the first time. And I strongly feel anyone who has messed with it or helped me might not have the slightest clue on how to do it right. I live in the middle of bumfuck nowhere everything is a long drive and of course at a cost out here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Upon more reading I think I understand the need of the idle screws for slide height at idle sorry I didn't fully register that last post you said. So correct me if I'm wrong when I get the idle screws those when set properly will hold the slides up so the cable doesn't need to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 Upon more reading I think I understand the need of the idle screws for slide height at idle sorry I didn't fully register that last post you said. So correct me if I'm wrong when I get the idle screws those when set properly will hold the slides up so the cable doesn't need to? Yes. The idle screws will go into the side of the carbs and the bottom of the slides will rest on them, this is what adjusts your idle rpm, idle has nothing to do with your throttle cable. You then will sync your slides to where both open at exactly the same time when you just barley open your throttle. You need to post pics of your carbs, it sounds like somebody half-assed shit and didn't do the delete correctly. You may need to get the complete delete kit so you can drill and tap your carb bodies for the idle screws. It's not hard to do and there are tons of post's about it on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camp0429 Posted April 15, 2016 Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/135591-tors-removal-idle-screws-install/ Read this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/calebpruitt350/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160415_114311_zpsk2fjg7mp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1993_banshee Posted April 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2016 http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/calebpruitt350/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160415_174850_zpsoybdqdpt.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/calebpruitt350/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160415_174906_zpsiuqksgyk.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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