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1993 banshee jetting help


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So what actions are to be done to correct that?

 

Going back and re-reading your post's, everybody is telling you to go fatter on your mains for a reason. I understand you are probably getting frustrated and tired of hearing that, but again, everyone is telling you that for a reason. Reason being you will most likely burn that motor down with 260 mains. Even more critical in cooler temps. You need to start fat on your mains and work your way down if need be.  

 

I can't vouch for FMF's advice they gave you, I have never dealt with them. I assume they probably just punch in your info into the same chart that I posted, (which, again does not account for POD's) and tell you to go from there. 

 

I read where you posted that you had 270 mains installed and it ran even worse, but at what throttle position was it worse? I think you are getting confused on what jets affect which throttle range. I suggest you do some research on jetting and try to understand what jets affect what throttle range. For example, the mains we speak of are the primary circuit from 3/4 to WFO throttle, your needles are going to be the most important factor around the 1/2 throttle range, so by changing your mains and it running like shit at 1/2 throttle, you should be looking at your needle and not going smaller on your mains. You can mask overly rich or lean mains to an extent with needle position. But then again when you fatten your mains it MAY be necessary to lean your needle 1 groove. Maybe, maybe not. Every motor is different and everybody rides different. Bottom line is, every circuit has to work together to be happy. It may take a little while to figure out what your motor wants which is why you want to start fat and work your way down so you dont cook your motor in the process. If you do some research, you will find your pilots is your primary idle and just off-idle circuit, then your needle, then your mains. If your motor wont idle right changing out your mains is going to do nothing but have you chasing your tail. 

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Ok now I put the 300 in and the one carb isn't getting any gas.(only hit on one) took it off and it was dry. What does that mean

That it's not getting gas.

Blow our the lines, check needle and seat and floats, and check petcock.

It'll show in both carbs if it was dirty, but weider shit has happened. Just follow the path of the fuel to the bowl.

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To be honest I'm really just having a hell of a time jetting and getting it right and me not being entirely mechanically inclined I have my limits. I have so much money and emotions tied into it over the last 3 months I don't have the slightest clue if I'm doing things right or where to go from here

You said the gas in it was nasty. One of the first things I do when working on any old engine is pull the carbs down and give them a 30 minute soak in this. About $20 at any parts store. You can't tune a dirty carb. Be sure to remove all rubber and gaskets parts, including orings. Then use your Clymers manual (you have one, right?) to put it back together correctly.

 

This may not solve your problem, but at least you'll know you're not fighting a dirty carb.

 

https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/eco-friendly-products/berryman-chem-dip-carburetor-and-parts-cleaner/

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