barry1me Posted March 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Cam just called me back. Nice guy. He gave me several options to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SandSlingerOR Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Save yourself $100 in shipping your motor all the way to the westcoast & ship it to sleeper. He's alot closer & I hear nothing but good reviews. Send him a pm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry1me Posted March 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 $2k for a 4mm build including having them put it together with stock carbs or $650 for a agressive dune port, milled stock head, top end and timing plate. Im going to pull apart top end this weekend and take a look at crank condition with some feeler guages. If crank looks ok Im not pulling engine apart to do it, if so then Im doing a 4mm build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Another option is driveline cylinders 68mm bore with welded stock crank. Check out Mailmans 392 dyno. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 $2k for a 4mm build including having them put it together with stock carbs or $650 for a agressive dune port, milled stock head, top end and timing plate. Im going to pull apart top end this weekend and take a look at crank condition with some feeler guages. If crank looks ok Im not pulling engine apart to do it, if so then Im doing a 4mm build. You'll want to true and weld the stock crank. The time and money invested in splitting the cases and working on the stock crank could go to a 4mil. There's no way I'd split the cases and not go 4mil. Get a pro-mod trans as well. ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry1me Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) You'll want to true and weld the stock crank. The time and money invested in splitting the cases and working on the stock crank could go to a 4mil. There's no way I'd split the cases and not go 4mil. Get a pro-mod trans as well. ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. Im trying to keep my cost down now and just do rebuild myself. I have never rebuilt one, but Im fairly mechanical, I may try and see if someone locally would be willing to give me a hand. Looks like running a ported stock top end with stock crank unwelded may not be the wisest choice. If I knew I could make stock crank last 2 seasons (I only plan to go to silver lake to play around 2 times this year), then I would do a 4mm setup or cub setup in 2 years. Im just trying to make my setup a budget fun build for mean time. Im not looking to spend $2500 right now. Edited April 1, 2016 by barry1me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 If you don't have the money to do it once, do you have the money to do it twice? ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 If you don't have the money to do it once, do you have the money to do it twice? ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. This. Buy once cry once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Quit being a cheap ass. Pay once. Save twice. I'd run it how it is till you blow it up. Then go all out. You could gather used parts till you have everything you need. That'll save some coin, but good used parts aren't cheap. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 you wont find any jap components on the wiseco or HR unless you put them on yourself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry1me Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Quit being a cheap ass. Pay once. Save twice. I'd run it how it is till you blow it up. Then go all out. You could gather used parts till you have everything you need. That'll save some coin, but good used parts aren't cheap. probably what I will do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 You can always buy a junked engine and send it in. It'll reduce downtime, but it'll add about $600-$1k to your budget. ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barry1me Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 You can always buy a junked engine and send it in. It'll reduce downtime, but it'll add about $600-$1k to your budget. ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. I actually thought about that. Then have a spare engine. Most likely I will take the plunge and do assembly myself and ship out cylinders and head to cam to get done. Then pickup a HR 4mm crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Buy a crank from him and have it welded and the bearings upgraded. ISO purple BHQ hat. Sent from the whoops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 OP, you're stubborn af!! Cam only charges $250 to assemble and leak test your motor!! I got a quote from him to basically build a 4 mil dune port using my entire motor shipped to him and shipped back to me. I'm talking new clutch, new billet basket, pancake bearing, mattoon head with 2 sets of domes etc and it was only $2k ready to drop in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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