tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 While the engine is gone, I'm going to do some work on the chassis. I've decided on a chromoly subframe, tabs removed, and a chromoly tube to replace the gusset that's behind the front bumper. I'm also pondering on doing away with the factory gusset that's under the 2 tubes that run in front of the engine in favor of 2 tubes that form an X. I'd also like to gusset the upper stem mount tubing so I don't have to force the tank off the next time I roll it. Any other suggestions to save weight? A1 is for fags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I'm going to try to find a subframe that has the oem style bend to the grab bar that isn't removable so that I can save weight there as well. It'll be powdered for sure. Frame will be white, subframe, nerfs, swingarm, and a-arms will be black. If I can get F43 to build me a bumper in time, it'll be black too. A1 is for fags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Gusset the steering stem stop so it doesn't bend forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaegerEliminator Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I agree with r.r.l. above. A bolt on subframe is definitely the better decision. Regarding the steering stem stop, reinforcing is a must do. Also, I believe that you can carefully trim the ends of the steering stop to create tighter turning. This should only be done AFTER you have bolted up your new front end and determined if you need to do this and if you can without creating any issues. If too much is ground off you will create bigger problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I agree with r.r.l. above. A bolt on subframe is definitely the better decision. Regarding the steering stem stop, reinforcing is a must do. Also, I believe that you can carefully trim the ends of the steering stop to create tighter turning. This should only be done AFTER you have bolted up your new front end and determined if you need to do this and if you can without creating any issues. If too much is ground off you will create bigger problems. I agree, just don't take too much off or it could cause your front end to lock up if you turn your bars too far. Just like if it were bent forward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 How much you want to spend? I have a chassis ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 isnt your shit extended and all that? not really "mx" friendly Not the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I want a removable subframe, just not a removable grab bar from the subframe. The stops can't be turned in my case because it the LSR arms that I have. The rims are less than 1/8" from the arms at full lock. A1 is for fags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 How much are you asking loco? Which one? A1 is for fags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 How much are you asking loco? Which one? A1 is for fags. My hillclimb chassis. I'm not really selling it, unless someone offered me enough for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Well considering that I'm pouring my money into the engine build at the moment and that I may have to run different shocks, I couldn't go over $1000 for it at the moment. That would obviously go up after late Feb., but that's where I'm at now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Well considering that I'm pouring my money into the engine build at the moment and that I may have to run different shocks, I couldn't go over $1000 for it at the moment. That would obviously go up after late Feb., but that's where I'm at now. LOL. I had an offer of 4x that amount two months ago that I turned down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 LOL. I had an offer of 4x that amount two months ago that I turned down.What exactly is done to that chassis that makes it worth so much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfaith08 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 LOL. I had an offer of 4x that amount two months ago that I turned down. $4k? A Laeger's chassis minus the cost of the pro-trax front end, swingarm, and stem is $4k. There'd be no way I'd go over $1500. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 What exactly is done to that chassis that makes it worth so much? First and foremost, I dropped 11 pounds off the front. The chassis is light. Start looking at and pricing chassis work and you'll see why I declined. They also wanted the a-arms, front shocks, swingarm, etc.. They wanted to be able to bolt a motor in and go. I don't need the money so I passed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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