JasonB Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 i am looking to install Fasst Flexx bars onto my banshee and i already have a set of ProTaper 1 1/8 fat bar adapters to do it with. My question is about what to do with the stock key switch and if the cables and wires will be long enough. I have one of the Moose Easy-Pull devices for my clutch (HD clutch springs and ASV short lever seem like a tiresome combo) so i know the clutch cable will be long enough. How are you guys handling key switch relocation; i was hoping to keep it in the same area but the wire seems to be a little short for the 1.5-2" higher location. Are the kill switch/light control wires long enough to reach ok? Will my throttle cable be long enough or will the bike be free reving when its turned full lock to the right? Is there anything else i am overlook for installing these bars? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrx46 Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 Kill switch should be good. Relocate the key under the seat with a bracket. Or you could drill a hole in the plastics somewhere and have it there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 I have a + 2 stem and my stock cables worked. I run a tether tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 First of all hello from Far North Queensland, Australia. Got a set of flexx bars on my shee, low 15 degree bend from memory, clutch mounted up fine, Just joined the two key wires for now until I find a position for the key. I was thinking right side of the radiator shroud. Installed a pro armor tether when the bars went on, ran the wiring back through the factory harness and soldered it into the kill switch. I don't like to cut and join into wires, just a pet hate of mine. Placed the switch right side of the bar mounts. I'll try get some pics, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted January 2, 2016 Report Share Posted January 2, 2016 Just wire the key switch wires together and tuck that stuff near the tank out of sight. Use a kill switch to kill the engine. IMO keys just provide a false sense of security. Plus it looks cleaner. Also for an easier clutch pull, install a slingshot lockup clutch. Very expensive but you can have a stock feeling lever or less. That's why i did it years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 First attempt to upload pictures hope it works. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonB Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 First of all hello from Far North Queensland, Australia. Got a set of flexx bars on my shee, low 15 degree bend from memory, clutch mounted up fine, Just joined the two key wires for now until I find a position for the key. I was thinking right side of the radiator shroud. Installed a pro armor tether when the bars went on, ran the wiring back through the factory harness and soldered it into the kill switch. I don't like to cut and join into wires, just a pet hate of mine. Placed the switch right side of the bar mounts. I'll try get some pics, Hey thanks for the info and pics! I have the same style of Flexx bars. Are yours angled back towards rider? I thought they were supposed to be a little more upright. it looks like you have the same pro taper fat bar adapters I have As for the key I don't want to cut up my wiring or remove the key, I like it there and I'm going to do my best to mount it on the Flexx bars similar to stick. If it won't work for what ever reason then I will mount it in the plastics somewhere around the stem. I really like the stock aspects of this machine; cutting the key out and chopping fenders Etc all that stuff cheapens these bikes in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 3, 2016 Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 When I fitted the bars, got everything on there but left it loose enough to move, then stood in the attack position & rolled the bars back and forth until it was comfortable. Centered them, then tightened the mounting to spec(20Nm/14ft.lbs), the sat on the bike and seen how if felt, done the same with the clutch, brake and controls. After that, turned the steering from one side to the other making sure nothing pulled or rubbed and cabled tied wiring harness in place or anything that was going to chaff. The bars ended up slightly off vertical towards the rider, pics to follow soon. As for the key not sure what I'm going to do with it. I just did a similar thing to what RagunCajan said to do for the time being. I completely understand your opinion on the plastics, and if you want to go that way could try a 1 1/8 Stauff clamp(attached pic) used for hydraulic hose and lines with some aluminum plate mounted between the bar clamps with the key. Round the corners off, mount the key in it & polish it up to look nice Just an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonB Posted January 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2016 That's a solid idea. I have seen people mention using a cigarette lighter from a pick up truck to mount the key tumbler in. I wouldn't be opposed to drilling a hole in the side of the fenders around the steering stem to mount the key through as well either. I like the key, obviously it won't stop someone from stealing the bike I just like that there is one at all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 That is it the key isn't going to stop someone from stealing it if they really want it, however all you have to do is make your a bit harder to steel then the next person. That's why i thought about mounting the key in the radiator shroud cause if I %$@#ed it up I could just replace the shroud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Bar angle. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunatic619 Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Got rid of my key. It's just more stuff to lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Key radiator shroud. Wiring should reach & key body should clear the radiator. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPPIN' IT UP Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 If your keeping the key I suggest tying it to something so it's harder to loose. Been there done that. Sent from my ZTE T83 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted January 4, 2016 Report Share Posted January 4, 2016 Keys are useless. Tether only on anything I own. I have a +2+1 stem, +2 brake lines, oem clutch cable, motion pro throttle cable. Everything fit fine no binding. I run the bars back at the same angle as impact comes. I read somewhere that's the best way to run them I think. But there far enough/tall en oh gh I'm comfortable in any position. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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