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First real port job


Zillaguy

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Yes the bike will be dynoed and dyno sheets will be posted in this thread. As far as the R3's go, the first set is at the chromer right now. They are designed for 500cc and bigger.

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Tom told me the same porting specs for the r3s. I'm not a fan of that low of a blow down so I went with my usual numbers , they ran really well

When i measured just now i got 33° of blowdown. My ex port comes in slightly higher than i would have liked. It's measuring 202°, and transfers are 134°. Damn! I hate screwing up, it is my first though. I give the guys who do this and are masters at it huge credit, it's not easy. One false move, or too much pressure, incorrect cutting speed, angle of the tool to the port hole, and it's over.
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When i measured just now i got 33° of blowdown. My ex port comes in slightly higher than i would have liked. It's measuring 202°, and transfers are 134°. Damn! I hate screwing up, it is my first though. I give the guys who do this and are masters at it huge credit, it's not easy. One false move, or too much pressure, incorrect cutting speed, angle of the tool to the port hole, and it's over.

Shit happens when you party naked. At least you're learning, and capable. Cylinders are cheap, and everywhere. A wise man once told me to leave a mm, and finish up after boring. Just a theory, but the slower you go. The easier the clean up it seems.

 

 

I agree on giving credit to guys who do this for a living. When you want a port job you think holy fuck 350-400$. Once you buy tools, and try you start thinking.......holy fuck how do they do this shit for 350-400$ lol.

 

 

I'm all for the do it yourself guys. Keep the curious updated.

 

sent from yo mammy house.

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They should still work properly, just not speced exactly how i want. Im thinking 2° shouldn't hurt it. But yes, i have more into tooling than i would have paid to just let a pro port them. The Matco long shank solid carbide burr tool kit was $250 by itself, and only contains 3 bits. Then the old 90° pencil grinder broke, so i had to buy a new one $243 from Snapon and the 1/8 solid carbide burr set was $100. I have the tooling now, so im not going to stop, i have 3 other sets of virgin cylinders to play with if these don't work. Got to start somewhere, and sometime, no better time than now!

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Shit happens when you party naked. At least you're learning, and capable. Cylinders are cheap, and everywhere. A wise man once told me to leave a mm, and finish up after boring. Just a theory, but the slower you go. The easier the clean up it seems.

 

 

I agree on giving credit to guys who do this for a living. When you want a port job you think holy fuck 350-400$. Once you buy tools, and try you start thinking.......holy fuck how do they do this shit for 350-400$ lol.

 

 

I'm all for the do it yourself guys. Keep the curious updated.

 

sent from yo mammy house.

Hey, how'd you know i was doing this naked?!
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I definitely went too far on the final clean up cut. Should be good ill just have to match the other cylinder perfect. 202/134 should be a screamer

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There's the first mistake. After doing it awhile I find it beneficial to do both cylinders at the same time , whatever your doing to one do the other . . For example, I use my 1/4 collet burr to cut windows on both intakes rite away and use that tool in both cylinders as long as I can until I have to change tool shape to fluff the ramps . I do the same for each bit . Keeps it consistAnt for sure. Do me a favor send me a pic of the exhaust port with the piston at the top of the transfer windows so I can get a visual of time/area before transfers open . You might need to increase time/area with that low of a blowdown . Whenever you hog the intakes and get more fuel up the tunnels you need enouph area to get get it out before transfers fill cylinder again

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