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More Banshee Problems!


KEVPOPPAPUMP

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Alright, I'd like to thank those on the board that helped me get my clutch arm arrows aligned correctly!

I just got back from a 2nd dissapointing Glamis trip in a month. The only upside was getting 3 good passes on Olds with the new Patriot port work. The power increase was awesome!

After just a few passes, the clutch arm got stuck and wouldn't budge. I got back to camp and pulled the clutch cover, hub, and basket. The fluid looked good but the adjuster screw, ball, and rod didn't. The were all welded together and could not be extracted with a magnet. The arm was extremely worn and burnt where it contactls the rod.

So I talked to a builder from Atomic Racing and he stated that this is a common problem that he sees all to frequently. The clutch heats up from holding it in too much causing the ball to weld to the rod and the rod smashes like a mushroom from friction pushing the arm. The solution is to use a Honda bearing or add one if I heard correctly. I forget exactly what he said the kit consists of but it utilizes a Honda part or design. This builder sells the kit for $75. He also stated something like Honda addressed this poor age old design by changing it on the 1988+ 250R's.

So after rebuilding my motor just 2 months ago, its time to split the cases again just to fix this poor Yamaha design with a better Honda part. WTF!

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That sucks!

 

I can't help but think something was still not adjusted correctly. I have had my Banshee apart many times in the over 15 years I have been riding it, and have never had any problems with the clutch rod & ball. I still have the original parts in mine.

 

When I put my clutch back together I loosen the cable at the perch. Then I adjust the pressure plate Screw to 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from light contact. This has worked great for me.

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rolling down olds with the clutch pulled in?

I don't roll down with the clutch pulled in, however, I am guilty of sitting at the start line with the clutch in waiting for a race. I am just now starting to hear people say it is bad to use the clutch too much. Lesson learned a little too late for me! Maybe if neutral was easier to engage, I'd use it more. I do have a modified shift star with back cut neutral from MP Racing and don't notice any difference from stock.

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What caused it is when your at the line and revving the motor w/ the clutch slightly engaging....my shee started to do the same thing one day when I was dragracing on asphault. I tried to slip the clutch to stop wheeling on take off and started to heat up the clutch rod and ball. The clutch lever was hard as hell, but broke free. Been fine since..I guess I got lucky and I no longer rev my motor w/ the clutch slightly engaged for any period at the line now... <_<

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Another thing that was recommended was to drill a hole on the left side of the case and plug it with a bolt so if the rod and ball was not too severly stuck, you could at least tap it out rather than rely on a magnet. I had a really strong magnet so the rod must be mushroomed badly.

Anybody know what this actuator kit is that TDR sells for $200? The description says "eliminates stock rod and ball assembly" but there is no pic.

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Well if you've gotten this far why give up now? like fixitrod said, dont let some dealer rape you on repair chagres when you can do it yourself. If i recall you have already burnt up your clutch once so this can be an on-going problem. Keep at it till you get it right.

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Revving w/ the clutch fully in is fine. I've never had a problem there. Its when your revving it before a drag w/ the clutch semi-grabbing that does it... I ran about 10 times before it happened to me. I was revving it w/ the clutch half out for about 10 seconds before each run.....I do this to my streetbike at the dragstrip... we actually slip the clutch for about 300' w/ the street bikes to get better times and to stop wheelies....never had a problem w/ the bike. Figured I'd try it w/ the shee since I have a shorter swingarm and my buddies want to race on pavement....I was kicking ass until the clutch froze up.... :o Oh well, I won though.... :D:P

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Revving w/ the clutch fully in is fine. I've never had a problem there. Its when your revving it before a drag w/ the clutch semi-grabbing that does it... I ran about 10 times before it happened to me. I was revving it w/ the clutch half out for about 10 seconds before each run.....I do this to my streetbike at the dragstrip... we actually slip the clutch for about 300' w/ the street bikes to get better times and to stop wheelies....never had a problem w/ the bike. Figured I'd try it w/ the shee since I have a shorter swingarm and my buddies want to race on pavement....I was kicking ass until the clutch froze up.... :o  Oh well, I won though.... :D  :P

Did you just replace the ball and rod? Or did you do the pancake bearing or ceramic ball mod?

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