Abe Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 Inside the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2015 One of the sellers other posts lists the box is good up to 5amps, when I used a conversion calculator online that in return equals 60watts. I will be less than half of that so I would think I'm well in the safe area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 All the rave about what's in the box and now no comments, eBay seller replied to my ? And said it should be good for 150 watts or 12.5amps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Sorry been busy but you can't really see much there's a capacitor I'm assuming there's a bridge rectifier in there but all I can see is the capacitor and some foam stuff Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gusto Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 So Abe are you going with the rectifier instead of a battery? You should do an install write up on it since this question comes up all the time. What switch will you use for the low, mid, and high beams? Will you use the stock light switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 The capacitor that's in that box takes the place of a battery to eliminate flicker if it is large enough for the application. But I'm still curious as to if its just using a standard $5 bridge rectifier to convert to DC in there or something else and what he's using to regulate it. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 I'm using the factory regulator before the rectifier to keep the voltage in check. The high med and low is a push button incorporated into the rear of the headlight housing. I have a lsr bar clamp with the mount for a tether but instead I will be using a plate to mount the push button trail tech switch to power the headlights on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 The rest of the box is captured in that spray foam so nothing else will be able to be seen without tearing it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Once you get it hooked up while using the factory ac regulator post up what you're dc voltage is at idle and at some higher rpms. I kind of doubt it will be correct, because there is a multiplication factor when changing to DC, and since you are regulating it before you are rectifying it, I would be curious as to what volts it is putting out. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 If it follows standard rules and the aftermarket box does not have a regulator in it and relying on the stock ac regulator, I would think at 12v ac you would end up with 7.6 volts dc and if at 14.5 ac then you would end up with 9.2 volts dc. But real life application may prove otherwise. Or...... that's the liquor talking.... lol Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe Posted October 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Well I went to do some testing today and just had the box mocked up with no lights. Fired up and immediately had led indicator light on showing that it was working. Lasted about a minute while I was rounding up volt meter etc.. before it went out. Seemed to happen while I was giving it a rev so I thought damn my regulator isn't working and I had fried the box. Went on to test the current regulator plus one more and I have roughly 9.5v at idle but neither one will reach more than about 11v no matter how hard I rev it, also seems to make more volts just a little past idle compared to a hard rev. Without the regulator it easily makes 20v + so I don't think my stator is bad but why can't I get 12v with the regulator ? Also any ideas how to test the box to see if it's fried ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 Read my last post.... if you are regulating the AC to 12 volt before you change it to DC it will not be the voltage you expect. You need to rectify it to DC and then regulate it to 12 volt DC after it is rectified to DC. This is why I recommend the trail Tech rectifier regulator set up for 60 bucks. I have a simple 2000 milliamp rechargeable 12 volt battery pack that was like 20 bucks hooked up as well then I can have light for quite a while without it running if I need to fix something or somebody wrecks and we need some light. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 I tried to get off cheap also and all it did was end up costing me a little bit of money and time as well then when I actually bought the trail Tech unit I have a wonderful set up that works perfect. Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted October 12, 2015 Report Share Posted October 12, 2015 By the way thought I'd say I'm not associated with trail Tech by any means whatsoever Sent from my Samsung S3 on Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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