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Popping Exhaust


04BRAAP

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Get a leakdown test done yet?

Leak down test was good no leaks . Compression was also good 139 right side and 140 left. I swapped out crabs from a perfectly working banshee today and still popping . Swapped coils and still made the noise. Don't know what else to try .

 

 

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I took the bike to the shop and the tech told me I needed to rebuild my carbs . He said that there was a lot of fuel on my right pipe that's why one pipe was cooler that the other . After the carbs I would have to repack my right pipe to get rid of the fuel soaked into the packing . What do you guys think ?.

 

 

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Think their tech is potentially misleading you.

Give them a thorough deuche'.

I thought the same thing . I didn't think the fuel could get into brand ew packing so quick with out spitting out of the pipe, if that much fuel was passing through .

Could it be that the silencer it clogged with built up carbon ?.

 

 

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Possible but doubtful. Put a coat hanger down it and I bet it's fine. What you have is an issue where the motor is pumping the fuel but not lighting it thoroughly. I would really research the electrical. I'll post a list of things to check in a few minutes.

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I posted this quite a bit and it has helped a few fellas.

 

Trouble shooting list

 

-Flywheel (no rattles good magnetically)

-Flywheel key ( not sheared off or not advanced key with extra timing on plate)

-Stator (ohmed and tried another good working stator of known working bike?)

-Pick up and pick up gap (don't be afraid to file nubs)

-Wiring harness Un wrapped and gone through

-Connectors cleaned and greased

-New spark plugs

-Clipped plug wire ends where boots thread in

-New plug boots

-Ohmed and tried known coil

-Coil surface grounded and cleaned w/ dielectric -Harness ground cleaned up

-Tors/park brake/key/tps/ all deleted properly

-Disconnected the tether switch

-Test kill switch

-Swap coil

-Swap CDI

-Swap stator

 

Random stuff from electrical FAQ:

At the CDI harness side connector, check for continuity between the red/black wire and the black wire. You should have continuity with the key on. (or bypassed) If no continuity, there's your problem. If that checks, check between the black/white wire and the black wire. That's your kill switch. It should be open circuit for it to run.

 

You got it. We noted and have posted many times, the typo that Clymer did in their manuals. Primary is from blade connector to blade connector and secondary is from plug wire to plug wire. Remember to remove the plug caps and test separately. They are known for failures . Remember also to unclip the wires completely from the coil and test "ONLY" the coil when you get a bad reading. Wires shit out commonly, the coil itself rarely fails.

 

your ignition has 4 wires. cut the ignition off. the black with white stripe and red with brown stripe need to be soldered . then solder the red and brown wires so you then have 2 wires. wrap them up in electrical tape (NOT TOUCHING) then your ignition will be eliminated.

 

the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator.

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