AAlamo Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Been doing a lot of research on these and finally feel confident that I will be able to dedicate enough time on this project to do it right. So the platform: Bought a stock roller for 600 bucks, took all the stock shit off of it, put it on my 04 yfz 450, and sold it as a stock 450. Then kept all the aftermarket parts for my roller frame. As it sits now: Stage 3 Elka LT shocks with +2 a arms and fireball racing +3 swing arm Lsr +1 steering stem with flexx bars blingstar nerf bars Itp holeshots on Douglas rims Used the money from the yfz I sold to buy an 03 banshee for basically the same price I sold my yfz for (great deal!). Specs: 4 mil long rod with 66mm pistons Coolhead V force reeds 34mm Kehin pwks Trinity stage iv pipes and silencers Here's what the two look like. Can't wait to get started next week. Stay tuned for more updates. Open to advice from members who have done the conversion! I know it will take some time but the results look worth it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Man-O-Steele Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 No pics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) Edited August 14, 2015 by AAlamo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 great start swapping the rad over to a banshee/raptor position will go a long way towards solving overheating and pipe clearance issues, have you looked through all the other build threads in this section...some are very good...some not so much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 great start swapping the rad over to a banshee/raptor position will go a long way towards solving overheating and pipe clearance issues, have you looked through all the other build threads in this section...some are very good...some not so much Yep I've looked over every thread in this section probably two or three times and have been taking notes on what works, what looks clean, the steps I have to take in order to do the project, and parts that I will need to purchase that will allow for an easy conversion. I think I am going to go with cams route and use a raptor radiator mounted in front of the steering stem. I'm not sure yet, but if it raises the plastics too high I will cut out the top of the front fender and put a maier hood scoop over to give the radiator that extra inch or so of clearance but to keep it looking clean. Also, the current plan is to utilize the stock yfz headlights in a somewhat stock mounting location (might run hids though) but I'm not sure how im going to make that work yet. Basically, when looking at the bike from the front I wNt it to look as close to a yfz as possible. I won't worry about making the bike all shiny and pretty until after testing, but planning on going blue powder coated frame and parts with burnt orange plastics and blue graphics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 17, 2015 Report Share Posted August 17, 2015 hell of a start!! your going to love the bike when its done. i wonder if raptor 350 hood would go over on one of these OR the rappy 350 nose piece? just thought about this the other day. if i didnt have such bad ass fullbore's i would have trimmed the stocker hood or a one piece maier. the mock stage first will show any issues and any changes that you may need to do so thats a good idea. mine is just rattle can blacked right meow. i already had to redo the lower motor mounts because the engine stressed them to much whoops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted August 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2015 Yfz front motor mounts and raptor 700 40 mm radiator just came in. The radiator is a tightttt fit but it should work no problem without modifying the upper frame rails. Thanks for the recommendation Cam. Plenty of cooling capacity too compared to banshee stock radiator Where is everyone mounting their cdi and coil at? I was thinking about building an Ebox so that I could mount everything in one location including hid ballasts and then have a custom length wiring harness made. I might even use a box similar to the Yamaha Superjet Ebox and mount it above the motor to the upper frame rails. Just a thought, I want it to be clean and organized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 Started grinding and cutting shit out this weekend. Started by cutting out the yfz motor mounts and bottom of the angled support. Judging by how far forward the motor sits the head pipes might need to be shortened an inch closer to the cylinder. I zip tied the silencers on approximately where I think they will end up. Should be plenty high enough to clear the sprocket and brakes but what do you guys think about silencer placement? I also cut out headlight and front fender mount to get the radiator to fit. Wish I could get it about a half an inch lower but I think I will make it work since the plastics fit together decent. Not sure if I am going to cut into the front fenders or not yet. Going to have to relocate my front brake lines mount to behind the steering stem since the radiator is in the way. Progress is coming slowly but surely. On a random note: I put a picture of a yfz 450 steering stabilizer below as well. Since my radiator is exactly where this normally bolts up, is there any way to put it behind the steering stem and face the arm that holds the steering stem the opposite way? I'm looking to run one down the road but if I need to make any extra mounts behind the stem, I would rather do it now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike0chek Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 nice build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RollinRhino Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 That steering stabilizer is the real deal. Not cheap but worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted September 2, 2015 Report Share Posted September 2, 2015 one note on the radiator. rember the upper shock mounts are right there, i put in a cross bar in front of the rad across the two upper frame rails. a few big jumps that frame is going to squeeze and most likely crack or smush the radiator. the upper line where its hitting i modified that tank mount and the gas tank are to fit it all in there. i ended up making a differnt washer setup to fit it all and still have the tank held down. its a retarded tight fit after everything is in place. and i'm highly considering making an alluminum big tank that fits under the plastic and uses some differnt front mount options. this winter i will do that.. on the lower radiator hose. rember there is going t need to be room for the hose, hose clamp, and you to be able to slide it on and off. if you look at mine straight on it looks like the radiator is tilted to one side. i did this on purpose to scoot the lower rad hose over just a tad this keeps it low and makes plenty of room for the hose connections yo uwill need. the pipes can curve out a lot right past the downtube and then curve back in a lot if you place them just right you should be able to get one finger or so in between the front of the chamber and the upper a-arm. the steering stabilizer maybe under the tank? with the motor low where it should be you will have a lot of space above the head. i mounted my electrics right below the front of the tank, there is a section of frame there with a bunch of holes. i made special spacers that fit up in that grove and space the coil down so it clears, also same thing on the cdi. i tried to make it that i didnt have to modify the radiator for any reason. if it ever gets damaged or something happens it much easier to jut buy another one then have to fix or refab up a bunch of stuff on one. mock and test fit everything all together. motor in, pipes in, radiator in. thats what took so long on the one i did was working everything in together so it all fits right, is easy to work on, and minimal repair costs if anything happens. even after is is done ride it for a week and if there are any issues they will pop up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted September 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 Question: what is everyone using for air filters on these? I only have about 4.5 in of clearance from the carb to the shock. Could i run 2 4in k n filters or will I be losing too much power and hurting the motor? (2 6in k n filters came with the bike). Or should I run an adaptor from the carb around the shock and then have the filters attach to that. I think a green ice bike did it on here, but I'm not sure of the results. Question 2: if I shorten each headpipe by about an inch in order to clear the a arms and tuck in tighter will I be losing horsepower or changing the dynamic of the pipe? The left pipe sticks out further because the motor sits a little to the left in the frame to get the sprockets to line up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 if you shorten the head pipes yes they will change drastically . i would personally try to cut them at the welds and reposition them to clear the a-arms. try and mount the long sections as close to the frame as possible and make the 2 lower pieces curve out then up trinitys are also stainless pipes so rember that when you weld them back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted September 20, 2015 Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 i'll get the number of the filters i used. they are 6" at the flange and neck down to 4" or less at the back. a cone filter. k+n Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAlamo Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Rather than modifying the head pipes what if I modify upper a arms to mount 1/4-1/2 inch further forward? Is this safe? I also found what filters you were using cam, r 1082. The inner flange is too small for my 34 pjs but I am going to try to find a similar cone filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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