Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 OK so got a banshee because I wanted to build it from the case up. I have a few questions about a lot of little things. I'll upload picture with this. My case has some wear from the left side of the crank. The right side is perfectly fine. My main question about the cases is, will they need taken to a machine shop? If so I believe the guy that is doing my jugs can do this also? I've cleaned the cases almost as good as I can. And help for the case cleaning? Second, since I'm doing the entire motor I'm replacing the water pump spindal and bearings on that. Any notes to look for when ordering that? Most of the kits say hot rods kit. Does this matter? Or does it have to be a standard OEM kit? Because I can't find any. I'm also installing a new oversized radiator during this build. Along with new coolant lines. Anything else need done to have a completely new cooling system? I am also installing cool heads. Any tips on them? Or are they a bolt right on with no difference from the stock head? I believe the banshee blew up because they had on some funky air box boot on the left side. Which I am replacing both boots during this build. I also found that the idler washer and circlip had gone through the motor. I will be replacing them with OEM parts. Do I need a circlip tool to install? I am getting Wiseco pistons. I've done a top end rebuild on a banshee this is my first time splitting the cases. I am also replacing all the oil seal gaskets with a kit. Any advice on the rv you prefer to use? All advice is welcome. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Someone call the grammar Nazis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 First thing is buy a Clymers repair manual. Maybe a clue or two. Your "machinist" should have the pistons on hand before he starts boreing. If he doesn't know this, might want to find one that does. Without pics can presume case damage was from conrod that got loose. Won't hurt a thing. Mull makes a good pump and shaft. New OEM is good also. If you can't find Banshee water pumps on the netz, you're worse than this caveman. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Yamaha+Banshee+water+pump 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I have a manual. And yes he isn't doing all the work yet on the jugs. He's cleaning them then letting me know what size to order then when the pistons come in he's going to finish them. I'm sorry I thought I said I'm pretty much going back stock. I ordered a OEM Crank. I'm trying to go as stock as possible. It looks like it'll be 65.00 mm pistons. The left side of the crank housing has been beat up or scraped up from old crank or old metal that was in there. I've been trying to post some pictures but they say they are to big. I don't quite under stand number 3. In reference to the cool heads? I want to be able to bolt the right on like the OEM head on the OEM head bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 OK cool, so that saves me like 250. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Sorry I just joined last night. My tranny is still together besides the idler gear. I just have to out the drum and forks back together. What will need loctite? Besides the key for the fly wheel. And a couple main bolts. That's it right? And the Crank is OEM so it should have the dowels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Will I need a tool to get the circlip back on the idler gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I use green on things like spark plugs, and lug nuts. stuff you take loose regularlyLoctite on sparkplugs? You work for trinity racing? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 The circlip for the idler. I may have to get a new idler gear because mine seems wore out and has play in it. Unless there is a bearing in the idler I can replace. Again this is my first iime splitting cases on a banshee. I'm replacing everything I see or think needs replaced. Thanks for the help Gravel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ccmarler15 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I actually just found the part from the Yamaha OEM store. No bearing in the idler gear. Its a $60 dollar fix. $70 for everything I need that was lost in the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98_sheester Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Make sure you start a build thread so ppl can see the progress as you go. We like lots of pictures. Butni have a set of cylinders witha fresh hone there 65.25 if you need some spares just saying lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 loctite on sparkplugs thats fukn nutty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 One of the sponsers has steel bushinf for it. Think t's FAST. Be sur to install ring correct direction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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