trickedcarbine Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 BigRed's bottom end walk through is pretty decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 No, they say split them because the rod is in the tranny and the only way is splitting. There isnt much to splitting. -pull stator cover and clutch cover -remove flywheel and stator/plate. -remove clutch pack with 6 bolts then big center one, all slides off (If you want to leave topend on run a tie down or zip ties from the crank snout over the head and back down to the other side crank nut. To hold crank into top case) -remove the half moon safety tab behind basket -pop the kicker off, it just sits there in a hole with a spring in a slot. -remove the 8 bolts on top(I think 8) -remove the 8 nuts underneath CASES WILL NOW SPLIT Now pull the trans out and keep track of where the forks slide into each gear slot. Take pics as you go. Easy peezy I have the clutch cover off right now, and clutch plates out, do you not have to pull the motor? also, im a little confused on the ziptie idea to not remove the top end? also, dont you need a special tool to pull flywheel? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigweav81 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Never done it with top end on. Yes you need the right tool for flywheel. It's like 12$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyzstang Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Pull the motor. Takes 5 minutes or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yes sorry, didnt think I need to say pull motor. -Yes pull pipes carbs, filters. -Then plastics and tank which is a few bolts. -plugs -Clutch cable off case -remove motor mounts 2 underneath, 4 12mm bolts in front frame, 2 long bolts thru cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 what other speciality tools will i need? some clutch puller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigweav81 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Flywheel/ clutch combo tool. Strap wrench works as well. Just not as quick I didn't think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 Yes there is the clutch holder tool but I usually get a rag and wedge it in the crank gear to basket gear as well as put a rag in my hand and hold the basket while I hit it with a impact. You can even put the clutch back in to help hold the roll if you press and hold it together while you impact it. Also on the ziptie thing, you will.see once you get the motor out and covers all off and it should make sense. Ill try and draw a pic for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 You can use a penny(it's soft copper) to put between the gears. I use an impact gun. Cheap sears one. It works due to it being so quick. Not slow like a breaker bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 this is what Im getting for a flywheel tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 and thanks for all the help! any recommendations on what gasket kit i should get? or which ones ill need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Windrosa seals on ebay ive never had a problem, although everyone will say use a site sponsor. And you wont need and gaskets if you dont take the topend off. Just 1211 silicone to mate the cases. Although you cant really change the crank seals if you leave the top end on. Edited April 9, 2015 by possum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 so ill need to change crank seals? also, i cant even find a gasket that seals the cases on ebay? whats it sealed with right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 so ill need to change crank seals? also, i cant even find a gasket that seals the cases on ebay? whats it sealed with right now? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R4.TR9.TRC0.A0.H0.X1211+.TRS0&_nkw=threebond+1211&_sacat=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hondaracing02 Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 thanks! that usually work pretty good? guess i just dont want to miss a spot and then it leaks..was hopin there was a gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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