Jump to content

Ratio


Recommended Posts

In my opinion a few ounces extra is fine for the first tank or so then after that go normal. 2 stroke cranks with needle and ball bearings dont really need break in. The most important thing about 2 stroke break in is the rings which are being basically filed to mate up with the bore by the crosshatch from the bore hone. You dont want to get the rings hot which is what running across the honed cylinder can do. When hot they expand which can lead to too much expansion , hanging in a portn as well as heat itself damaging the quality and tension of the rings. I am patient about break in. I like to do 3 or 4 very short (30-60 second) startups with no riding to start the ring breakin process with at least 5 mins of cooldown in between. Then I like to idle and blip the throttle for no more than say 2 or 3 mins at a time with the 5 min cool in between. Then I will do a few easy rides of up to 5 mins with cooldowns in between. After that its good but I might still ride easy for the first 10 mins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When breaking in make sure you don't stay at the same rpm. I would take it easy for the first couple rides. Just make sure you keep woking the throttle up and down, and obviously don't got WFO. I run 20:1 for break in, they say that to much oil can actually cause the engine to run lean. According to physics it's possible but I've never seen it happen. In my opinion if you have that much oil it'll probably gonna run like shit or not run at all.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start.

Listen for odd noises.

After a good 5 min warm up.

Ride like normal.

All this break in stuff and heat cycles and 1/4,1/2 throttle, left turns only, and what ever else you hear is silly.

Nothing seats rings better then a good load on the engine.

Run the same ratio all the time. Why change shit up?

I've never seen a shop do all these things to an engine before they put it on a dyno. But what do they know.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't change mixture mostly due to the fact I build a decent amount of motors and any seat time for me is tuning time it's hard to get a good plug read with ridiculous amounts of oil . I'm very diligent with assembly lube on all parts . I do heat cycle a motor and sync carbs while heat cycling. After two heat cycles I ride it like normal but don't string out to death . After first pass I'll make adjustments if needed then plug chop if needed .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More oil = less fuel = more heat.

 

You sont want more heat on a new engine, so keep your ratio the same.

 

I always do heat cycles on my new engines, like Radar Racing do.

 

That never hurt to be on the safe side

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...