LaegerEliminator Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 Nope not at all. Would water in a carb give symptoms like that? Symptoms like a leaking pressure gauge?? Why are you even asking if there is water in a carb?? You just did a complete rebuild, including a thorough cleaning and inspection of the carbs, riiight?? Quote
Rage_kage Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 Symptoms like a leaking pressure gauge?? Why are you even asking if there is water in a carb?? You just did a complete rebuild, including a thorough cleaning and inspection of the carbs, riiight?? I did, I was just asking a question. I've seen old trucks act up when water gets in a carb. I washed my tank and let it sit in a warm basement for months, and premium gas sketches me out Quote
LaegerEliminator Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 I did, I was just asking a question. I've seen old trucks act up when water gets in a carb. I washed my tank and let it sit in a warm basement for months, and premium gas sketches me outGotcha. Did you start over with fresh gas and oil mix? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Quote
Rage_kage Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 Gotcha. Did you start over with fresh gas and oil mix? Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Yes but I live in a pretty isolated area and no one really has a use for premium gas. So I'm not sure how long it has been sitting in a tank Quote
LaegerEliminator Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 Yes but I live in a pretty isolated area and no one really has a use for premium gas. So I'm not sure how long it has been sitting in a tankGotcha Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk Quote
Larry's Shee Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 (edited) Didn't see in original post that you had bottom end apart. Is this so? If it is then you have to split it again and start over. It is possible to split with cyls on, tho a little more tricky (I've never done that). Your case vent should be put into cup of water, only way to tell if it's leaking. Test the tester first. Case surfaces must be oil free. A acid brush works well for spreading yammybond or 3bond. Laquer thinner works good for cleaning old shit off. Take care not to get any in threaded holes, or lots of excess near them. As to jetting/tuning, except when making major changes, change one thing at a time. No experience with Vito's needles, if they're not same as stock, use stock. Start with screw @ 1.5 out. The suggestion to try full lean on needle was really fucking stupid. If it needed to be leaner, you would go one posistion, then try that. When/if adjusting air screw go 1/16th turn and test, no more than 1/8 at a time. Either get lots of plugs for plug chops, or learn how to read them. Not saying it does or doesn't have anything to do with the cases leaking, but the fuel dripping from under might have leaked from carbs. Edited March 25, 2015 by Larry's Shee Quote
sleeper06 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 larry trying a needle in a lean position to see if improves anything is not stupid and can stear you towards needing a diffrent length /taper of a needle . I have tuned many bikes that needed the stock needle in the lean clip position , stock needles get finicky as you start putting bigger mains in due to the fact they were designed for 200-220 mains on a stock platform , if you read what I wrote I said put it lean , if it helps fine tune from there. You are rite I'm pretty stupid! Quote
Larry's Shee Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 Overly strong verbage, sorry. Better advice for someone with little to no experience would be to try one step (at a time) leaner (after trying full rich)(with no improvement). Most can't tell/feel/hear difference between lean/rich bog. Then when at full lean on needle would be to suggest leaner needle. Quote
sleeper06 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 I'm just fucking around, and I do take for granted tuning experience on most people. I allways do big steps to see a result then backtrack to fine tune. His air leak problem isn't helping the matter. I can't stress enouph clean, clean,clean,clean you could eat off anything I put together. And yes if it gets better all the way lean but still gives a rich condition , a longer length or diffrent taper would be my next step . This also depends on a perfect main jet plug chop . Most will leave it because experimenting with diffrent needles gets expensive , but when you find the rite one it's like wow what a diffrence Quote
Rage_kage Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 Ok, I got a new jig and guage. Pressure tested it for over 30 minutes and there was no drop in pressure. Plugged my motor and pumped it to 6 psi. Started the stop watch. Sprayed with warm soapy water with dish soap. Monitored for 3 minutes. No drop in pressure. Threw the ball with the dog and forgot about it. When I went over 12 minutes later the needle was still fully on 6 psi. I'm trashing the air leak idea. Drained carbs into water bottle. A small amount of water was in the carbs. Drained both carbs completely. Drained the bottom off the tank. Reassembled and tested. Still sluggish. Turned air screws in. They are about 1/2 turn out and the problem lessened so does that mean larger pilots and fresh gas? Quote
sleeper06 Posted March 25, 2015 Report Posted March 25, 2015 Did u put the stock needles in yet Quote
Rage_kage Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Posted March 25, 2015 Did u put the stock needles in yetYes I did that yesterday in the 4th pos. Quote
sleeper06 Posted March 26, 2015 Report Posted March 26, 2015 Start backing down one clip at a time, see if gets better. If it runs better with air screw 1/2 turn out or closed go up on pilot. Only do one thing at a time , it's a pain but worth it once it's lined out, or find someone who can tune Quote
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