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Jetting was never my fortè


Rage_kage

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Nope not at all. Would water in a carb give symptoms like that?

Symptoms like a leaking pressure gauge??

 

Why are you even asking if there is water in a carb??  You just did a complete rebuild, including a thorough cleaning and inspection of the carbs, riiight??

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Symptoms like a leaking pressure gauge??

 

Why are you even asking if there is water in a carb?? You just did a complete rebuild, including a thorough cleaning and inspection of the carbs, riiight??

I did, I was just asking a question. I've seen old trucks act up when water gets in a carb. I washed my tank and let it sit in a warm basement for months, and premium gas sketches me out
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I did, I was just asking a question. I've seen old trucks act up when water gets in a carb. I washed my tank and let it sit in a warm basement for months, and premium gas sketches me out

Gotcha.

 

Did you start over with fresh gas and oil mix?

 

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Didn't see in original post that you had bottom end apart. Is this so? If it is then you have to split it again and start over. It is possible to split with cyls on, tho a little more tricky (I've never done that). Your case vent should be put into cup of water, only way to tell if it's leaking. Test the tester first. Case surfaces must be oil free. A acid brush works well for spreading yammybond or 3bond. Laquer thinner works good for cleaning old shit off. Take care not to get any in threaded holes, or lots of excess near them.

 

As to jetting/tuning, except when making major changes, change one thing at a time. No experience with Vito's needles, if they're not same as stock, use stock. Start with screw @ 1.5 out. The suggestion to try full lean on needle was really fucking stupid. If it needed to be leaner, you would go one posistion, then try that. When/if adjusting air screw go 1/16th turn and test, no more than 1/8 at a time. Either get lots of plugs for plug chops, or learn how to read them.

 

Not saying it does or doesn't have anything to do with the cases leaking, but the fuel dripping from under might have leaked from carbs.

Edited by Larry's Shee
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larry trying a needle in a lean position to see if improves anything is not stupid and can stear you towards needing a diffrent length /taper of a needle . I have tuned many bikes that needed the stock needle in the lean clip position , stock needles get finicky as you start putting bigger mains in due to the fact they were designed for 200-220 mains on a stock platform , if you read what I wrote I said put it lean , if it helps fine tune from there. You are rite I'm pretty stupid!

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I'm just fucking around, and I do take for granted tuning experience on most people. I allways do big steps to see a result then backtrack to fine tune. His air leak problem isn't helping the matter. I can't stress enouph clean, clean,clean,clean you could eat off anything I put together. And yes if it gets better all the way lean but still gives a rich condition , a longer length or diffrent taper would be my next step . This also depends on a perfect main jet plug chop . Most will leave it because experimenting with diffrent needles gets expensive , but when you find the rite one it's like wow what a diffrence

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Ok, I got a new jig and guage. Pressure tested it for over 30 minutes and there was no drop in pressure. Plugged my motor and pumped it to 6 psi. Started the stop watch. Sprayed with warm soapy water with dish soap. Monitored for 3 minutes. No drop in pressure. Threw the ball with the dog and forgot about it. When I went over 12 minutes later the needle was still fully on 6 psi. I'm trashing the air leak idea. Drained carbs into water bottle. A small amount of water was in the carbs. Drained both carbs completely. Drained the bottom off the tank. Reassembled and tested. Still sluggish. Turned air screws in. They are about 1/2 turn out and the problem lessened so does that mean larger pilots and fresh gas?

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