KINGKILLA Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 The dirty burger? The sounds disgusting mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINGKILLA Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thinking about it do you you think it's worth going to a 4mill hotrods crank an would that effect the port job if I got it ported for stock stroke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINGKILLA Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Yeah just wanted to double check cause I need to figure out wether or not to get a 4mill crank an port job or stick to stock stroke with the port job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Maybe check out some SLP if you are wanting to do something new. You mentioned dune port. Might be worth looking at some shearers, CPI, or snipers. The little bit of documented testing shows the SLP stuff making the same peak as CPI but in the same type of curve like your pro circuits. My little bit of hands on with em confirms it for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINGKILLA Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Maybe check out some SLP if you are wanting to do something new. You mentioned dune port. Might be worth looking at some shearers, CPI, or snipers. The little bit of documented testing shows the SLP stuff making the same peak as CPI but in the same type of curve like your pro circuits. My little bit of hands on with em confirms it Thanks for the info il probably end up buying 1 of the pipes you mentioned, out of those pipes which would you say sound the best? So I'm thinking about if I should go with the port for the 4mill crank or get cylinders ported for the stock stroke crank. Would there be a big difference in performance between the 2? Does the 4mill just give you more low end? Would the top speed be the same on a 4mill dune port vs a stock stroke dune port? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Go 4mm and be done. once you build a stock stroke you'll want more soon enough. Jeff at FAST can even get you all the misc bottom end parts as well. that way you ride till it comes to AUS then you can pull your current motor apart and re do it top to bottom. That way You know everything will be fresh. That is the difference between a reliable fast motor, and some motor that always needs to be messed with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 I would definitely go with a 4 mil ported stock cylinder any day over a stock stroke ported stock cylinder if I had to choose between the 2. With the added stroke you'll make more power everywhere. What's your budget? Also what's your type of riding your doing? I didn't read your other pages which is why I ask. If you got the extra coin you may even consider making a 4-10 mil serval or cub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Go 4mm and be done. once you build a stock stroke you'll want more soon enough. Jeff at FAST can even get you all the misc bottom end parts as well. that way you ride till it comes to AUS then you can pull your current motor apart and re do it top to bottom. That way You know everything will be fresh. That is the difference between a reliable fast motor, and some motor that always needs to be messed with.This 110%. It was fun at first riding the weekend then working on my bike all week to get it ready for the next. But it got annoying and expensive fast. So I finally paid someone to do it for me. I changed my plugs once because they were there. And that was it. Best choice I made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINGKILLA Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Go 4mm and be done. once you build a stock stroke you'll want more soon enough. Jeff at FAST can even get you all the misc bottom end parts as well. that way you ride till it comes to AUS then you can pull your current motor apart and re do it top to bottom. That way You know everything will be fresh. That is the difference between a reliable fast motor, and some motor that always needs to be messed with. Thanks you just convinced me , so Jeff should be able to do a 4mill port job an sort me out with the crank etc. With the 4mill would i have to buy more parts to compensate for the longer stroke? My bike has just been rebuilt an I'm already thinking about a new top an bottom end. I would definitely go with a 4 mil ported stock cylinder any day over a stock stroke ported stock cylinder if I had to choose between the 2. With the added stroke you'll make more power everywhere. What's your budget? Also what's your type of riding your doing? I didn't read your other pages which is why I ask. If you got the extra coin you may even consider making a 4-10 mil serval or cub. 4 mill it is, I don't really have a budget but I dont really have the money all at once I'm buying stuff week by week starting with cylinders an cool head. The type of riding I do is going to be mostly wide open riding areas some trails now n then. Yeah I was thinking about the serval top end considering I'd be spending maybe 700 on the cylinders an getting them ported I'm about at the cost of serval cylinders, would I need more supporting mods for the serval then the 4mill dune port? Is the serval more/less reliable an is it worth changing my plans to go serval.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Thanks you just convinced me , so Jeff should be able to do a 4mill port job an sort me out with the crank etc. With the 4mill would i have to buy more parts to compensate for the longer stroke? My bike has just been rebuilt an I'm already thinking about a new top an bottom end. 4 mill it is, I don't really have a budget but I dont really have the money all at once I'm buying stuff week by week starting with cylinders an cool head. The type of riding I do is going to be mostly wide open riding areas some trails now n then. Yeah I was thinking about the serval top end considering I'd be spending maybe 700 on the cylinders an getting them ported I'm about at the cost of serval cylinders, would I need more supporting mods for the serval then the 4mill dune port? Is the serval more/less reliable an is it worth changing my plans to go serval.? A few things you should take to mind....1.Power Since your wanting more power it seems that you got the bug... And this is prob just the beginning.. So with that being said instead of doing a small jump in power I would go with a big jump. This way it will keep you happy for longer and your not upgrading the motor ever few months and spending a lot of unnecessary money. I started with a stock bolt on banshee. Then went to a 4 mil ported setup. It was a good jump at first but I grew out of the power quick and wanted more and ending up again going with a bigger engine. I think you would really like a 10 mil serval on pump gas. It will have tons of bottom end, be cost effective with pump gas and still put out close to 100hp with the correct pipes and supporting mods without any porting... Which you can port later if need be. 2. Suspension While a bigger more powerful engine may fulfill your thirst, to be faster you will want a good suspension setup to soak up all the bumps and not be bouncing around on those pogo stick stock shocks that come with the banshee. Suspension upgrade will make you faster regardless of which motor you build/have. I got the power first then did the suspension. Some may argue that you should do suspenion first but as long as you do both your be able to really enjoy your bike. 3. Gas consumption. While you make more power with a bigger engine and bigger carbs your bike will burn more fuel faster. This is something to take into consideration especially if you take long trips out when riding. Its a trade off that you get with more power. However there is things such as oversized gas tanks to fill the void and have more time on a tank. 4. Bling vs performance I love me some chrome don't get me wrong. If you look at my bike it's pretty obvious. I would get your chrome covers Ect later after your setup/motor is good and where you want it to be. Think of it this way.. It would be like putting the finishing touches on your masterpiece. 5. Prices and $ A proper bigger motor setup is going to cost some good amont of coin especially with some good suspension. But once you have it all you can sell some of your old stuff like pipes, cylinders, crank, carbs Ect to help refund some of your money. Wow that was a long post I think I just pulled a windy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 ^Went for a couple rips Sent from my shed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 ^Went for a couple rips Sent from my shed! No I wish I did... Still waiting for all this damn snow to melt which will be a coupe more weeks and trust me bud I'm dieing for a good rip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KINGKILLA Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 (edited) A few things you should take to mind.... 1.Power Since your wanting more power it seems that you got the bug... And this is prob just the beginning.. So with that being said instead of doing a small jump in power I would go with a big jump. This way it will keep you happy for longer and your not upgrading the motor ever few months and spending a lot of unnecessary money. I started with a stock bolt on banshee. Then went to a 4 mil ported setup. It was a good jump at first but I grew out of the power quick and wanted more and ending up again going with a bigger engine. I think you would really like a 10 mil serval on pump gas. It will have tons of bottom end, be cost effective with pump gas and still put out close to 100hp with the correct pipes and supporting mods without any porting... Which you can port later if need be. 2. Suspension While a bigger more powerful engine may fulfill your thirst, to be faster you will want a good suspension setup to soak up all the bumps and not be bouncing around on those pogo stick stock shocks that come with the banshee. Suspension upgrade will make you faster regardless of which motor you build/have. I got the power first then did the suspension. Some may argue that you should do suspenion first but as long as you do both your be able to really enjoy your bike. 3. Gas consumption. While you make more power with a bigger engine and bigger carbs your bike will burn more fuel faster. This is something to take into consideration especially if you take long trips out when riding. Its a trade off that you get with more power. However there is things such as oversized gas tanks to fill the void and have more time on a tank. 4. Bling vs performance I love me some chrome don't get me wrong. If you look at my bike it's pretty obvious. I would get your chrome covers Ect later after your setup/motor is good and where you want it to be. Think of it this way.. It would be like putting the finishing touches on your masterpiece. 5. Prices and $ A proper bigger motor setup is going to cost some good amont of coin especially with some good suspension. But once you have it all you can sell some of your old stuff like pipes, cylinders, crank, carbs Ect to help refund some of your money. Wow that was a long post I think I just pulled a windy Shout outs to windy.Do you have much experience with the 4mill serval? 10mill crank would need more supporting mods I'm guessing don't you need to get something done to your cases with 7mill an 10mill? Suspension is def something Il get sooner or later along with some a arms an axle I want to get some decent air too. Good point on fuel consumption an also on the bling, I was going to leave those covers for last anyway so it would be like you said putting the finishing touches on it. Yeah If I could start again I would of got ported cylinders at least from the start, it's def going to cost me to set up a decent motor an I'm not cheaping out on suspension. This is a list of what I eventually want done to it Cool head Domes Porting cylinders for 4mill ( stock cylinders for now ) V force 4 Reeds New Pipes Crank 4 mill welded an trued New Pistons Timing +4 Shift star mod Gaskets an seals for rebuild Jets for mods done, would stock carbs be good enough for this build? Pc frame etc Side covers Get a arms an shocks Axle New handle bars an steering stem. That's a crazy list considering I just spent fuck knows how much getting it to where it is now, but I will get shit done son. Edited March 13, 2015 by KINGKILLA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I think you would be pretty happy with either ported stockers or serval. The difference is only a couple hundred bucks as you are buying new cylinders anyway. The supporting mods are pretty much the same if you stick with 4mil stroke. All the stuff you just listed to a stock cyl build would apply to the serval. Same reeds, same pipes, same head shell, carbs, etc. All interchangeable. You would need different domes for the serval though. Not a big deal at all. I'm assuming you just wanna run whatever fuel you can get out the pump. That is where the serval picks up the slack. It makes the same performance as a high compression, lots of timing, ragged edge race fuel stock cylinder on pump fuel. Then you can apply those tricks to the serval and run it on race fuel and even take porting a bit farther and have a real handful. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I think it gets a bit more expensive to go 10mil. I think it's an added cost for durability for a billet crank, basket etc. I'm scanned over the whole thread again. I must of missed if you had bigger carbs. I think 35's are the norm for a 10mil. But you can ask whoever ports the juggs what they need to feed them. Then there's pipes and perhaps a lockup clutch(with light spings if a light clutch is your thing). Also case trenching adds a little cost. I honestly forgot most of the stuff it took to build my 10mil super serval. But damn it was expensive to get done right the first time. Then like already said, for near 100hp, you will probably want better a-arms and suspension. elka stage 3's are 1200 regular price. my long travel arm were about $650. I forgot the brand. It adds up fast. Plan out each build completely then pick your poision. it's very easy to say "well, while it's down, i might as well buy this...." Also imo stay away from used stuff. You can go broke trying to save a few dollars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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