volcrano Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 Built a motor for my girls shee. Did a leakdown and of course at the intakes had a leak. It still held at 5.5 psi the entire 6 minutes so I could have been good there, but obviously wanted to make it perfect, especially knowing where the leak was and how to fix it. After repairing that and testing again, it started all fine not moving at all until about 3 minutes, I hear a little leak. It took a few times of it bleeding off and pumping back to 6 psi to find it, and every time the leak was getting louder. I found the leak where the case halves meet right at the case drain hole in the center being the cylinders. One thing I need to mention is they are not matching cases. I had the parts so I tried. Now im not sure if the leak was because of mismatched cases, the fact that my threebond 1194 was like 4 years old (still looked good and was liquid), or the fact that the cases were almost like a polished surface. I bought new matching cases for the rebuild, but I sos pad the surfaces and it cleans them well but it makes them smooth. I'm curious as too if I should very lightly and quickly run over the case mating surfaces with some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to kind of scuff them for nice bite for the sealer, or if the smooth surface is fine. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted March 1, 2015 Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I always try to use matching cases if possible. That being said, if you must use them I wouldn't use sand paper. Maybe a red 3m scritch pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted March 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2015 I got a set of matching cases. I thought about the 3m pads, but the red is equivalent to a 320 grit paper scratch wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bennett131 Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Yes but sand paper means sand in your cases, unless you clean it really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 As long as it's clean and flat, sealant is fresh you should be fine. I usually Scotch Brite it and it's more then good. Don't go sanding on them because then you start to distort the surfaces. Side note, put it together in matched cases. Your crank and trans will thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Will do, I got a fresh tube of threebond 1211 to give a whirl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 If u have access to s glass beader I find it's the best surface finish to glue on , I usually glass beed , wash with ultra hot soapy water then wipe with ascetone with white rag . White rag is like a white glove test you'll know when it's good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dixie normus Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 If u have access to s glass beader I find it's the best surface finish to glue on , I usually glass beed , wash with ultra hot soapy water then wipe with ascetone with white rag . White rag is like a white glove test you'll know when it's good Best advice right here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted March 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I don't know anyone or anywhere close thay would be able to do the glass bead blast. Is the red scotch rite the next best thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Scuff, brakekleen, 1211, 12 pack, done...... no need for anymore steps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 Yes scotch rite is fine, I'm super anal bro , I just do what works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 sleeper is right on. i dont blast the shit out of the mating surfaces. and if at all possible try not to blast them at all. never sand the surface you are removing material. matched case haves are pretyty much a must have ( yes i know your brothers former room mates uncles dog's previous owners son did it and had no problems bla bla bla) import grey / ultra grey i personally prefer to the 1124 34 11 12 what the hell evver it is.. best thing is clean clean clean and dry! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 3, 2015 Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 ultra gray ftw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 I wanna say thanks fellas. Did the matching cases, cleaned em thoroughly, red scotch Brite padded the mating surfaces and threebond 1211. In 10 mins I had a .2 pressure drop but the pump is still hooked up and there is a slight seepage there. We are ready to roll! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 im going to convert to a soda blaster. read some bad stuff on glass bead. i think its one of the reasons i have had such a hard time with welding after glass bead blasting.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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